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hello I have a 1966 Ford F 100 I recently installed discbrakes on from a 1974 f100 I got every part needed to do this master cylinder brake booster both sets of lines both calipers both spindles both hoses proportioning valve / combination valve I replaced the rubber hoses with new and the calipers with new along with the pads the discs checked out okay my question is after getting them installed and bleeding them out the front calipers seem to want to hold and not release unless I break the bleeder loose any ideas of what this might be I did not replace the master cylinder or the combination valve or brake booster
Most upgrades will use the linkage bracket, as it is harvested from later Ford trucks. This is the superior method of upgrading to disc brakes.
However, the rod length between the pedal and the booster must be shortened. The rod length for '73 - '79 is longer than for '65/'66. If it is not shortened, then the pedal will sit too high, and its weight will constantly press on the brakes - just by itself.
So, it most likely needs to be backed off either at the booster, or between the pedal and the booster.
What I did was make sure the pedal was touching the bump stop then I raised the the booster push rod up to the side of the pedal marked the push rod then pulled the booster out then drilled a new hole then reinstalled the booster even if I unbolt the push rod from the pedal the calipers stay compressed the only way I can relieve the pressure from the calipers is to break the bleeder is there another way that I can test to see if it is lightly*pressing the pedal ?..
I believe you may misunderstand, the rod going into the mastercylinder needs to be backed up. Even though the pedel is not applying pressure the booster rod is. I had this issue on my truck.
I believe you may misunderstand, the rod going into the mastercylinder needs to be backed up. Even though the pedel is not applying pressure the booster rod is. I had this issue on my truck.
John
what is the process in doing that and how do I know how much to adjust it
Pull the MC off the booster pull the rod out of the booster that makes the MC work and see if it isn't adjustable. Mine was, screwed it down a little and problem was solved.
Pull the MC off the booster pull the rod out of the booster that makes the MC work and see if it isn't adjustable. Mine was, screwed it down a little and problem was solved.
Hope it will work for you as well.
John
Thanks I will try that this weekend and let you know
Pull the MC off the booster pull the rod out of the booster that makes the MC work and see if it isn't adjustable. Mine was, screwed it down a little and problem was solved.
Hope it will work for you as well.
John
well went out to the garage today (-7 degrees outside but I had to try) loosened up the master cylinder about an eighth of an inch and the calipers released so what you were saying is correct the rod is pushing on the master cylinder so I will take the master cylinder off make the adjustment put it back together thanks for your help
Glad I could help with the rod, sorry I can't with the temps.
Don't know how much to tell you to shorten the rod, don't go a lot you can always go back. Mine had just enough pressure applied that cold the front wheels would turn, then friction heat would swell everything until it locked the front brakes.
I did engine, transmission, power discs, & stearing all at the same time so it was a little harder to call.
What I did was make sure the pedal was touching the bump stop, then I raised the booster pushrod up to the side of the pedal, marked the pushrod, then pulled the booster out. Then drilled a new hole, then reinstalled the booster.
Even if I unbolt the push rod from the pedal, the calipers stay compressed. The only way I can relieve the pressure from the calipers is to break the bleeder.
Is there another way that I can test to see if it is lightly*pressing the pedal?
Please use punctuation when typing posts, it's very difficult to read a long run-on sentence.