2002 Explorer window has me baffled.
The drivers side window will not roll up using the master switch on the drivers side. I replaced the switch with one I bought online and it worked for one day then stopped working again.
The bottom of the master switch seems to be getting hot so I figured there was something wrong with the window regulator.
So I tore off the door panel and pulled the window motor/regulator out.
Turns out that when I plug in the switch and turn the key to the on position, the window motor is constantly stuck in "up mode". If I push down on the switch it stops rolling up but when I let off it resumes trying to roll up again.
Same thing with rolling it down in "Auto mode". If I push down for "auto mode" it stops the window from rolling down for about 5 seconds and then resumes trying to roll itself up again..
I ordered a new switch again and as soon as I plugged it in it started smoking and would not work at all. I tested the Motor/Regulator and there did not seem to be any shorts or problems.
I just got a replacement switch in the mail today but I am reluctant to try installing it because I don't want to burn up another new switch.
Also I did check for broken wires inside the door and also between the door and the body of the truck. Everything seems fine..
What do you guys think.. Bad switches from China? Or is there something else I am missing?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Where things differ a bit on the driver's window is because it has the one-touch down feature, there are some electronics that keep power to the driver's window motor until the switch is either pressed again or until the thermal breaker stops the current flow to the motor. It sounds like what's happening here is the electronics for the driver's door motor are continuously sending power and ground to the motor and once the thermal breaker resets, it gets power again to raise the window.
If you have a multimeter or test light you can confirm this by unplugging the motor at the regulator/motor and measuring across the terminals. If the test light lights or the meter shows battery voltage, there is an issue between the regulator and the power being provided to the master switch assembly. Since the new switch started smoking and wouldn't work, that makes me suspect the issue might actually be with the wiring rather than the switch since the one touch electronics are supposed to be in the switch assembly. Either that or you have bad luck and your new switch was defective as well. Have you carefully inspected the wiring between the switch and the regulator for any signs of modification?
-Rod
Last edited by weross67; Feb 20, 2015 at 12:58 PM. Reason: Left out important imformation








