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They are stone knives and bearskins simple, at least. Find a Motors Manual and a Ford Shop Manual published the year of your truck. Much easier to troubleshoot anything.
My manual says to first check for excessive resistance in the charging circuit if it won't charge.The regulator is grounded to both to apron or firewall and directly to generator. You can try "full fielding" and check for generator output. Poor grounds and cables might do it. Have they been replaced or cleaned since say, Eisenhower was playing golf still? On restored rigs, thick coats of paint will really screw up electrical bonding.
Would have to look it up. Basically it means running the generator without the regulator and measuring the output as Raytasch suggested iirc.
The generator runs full tilt above a certain RPM, the regulator's job throttles it down for voltage and current depending, on load and state of charge with mechanical points buzzing dozens of times a second.
It's a quick no-go-go test. I think it involves shorting the Field and Armature at the generator itself and measuring between the + battery and those two points. For current. Dig around on the net, there is good stuff. Tractor guys still speak generator, too. One quick test too, connect a heavy jumper cable wire from negative terminal at battery to negative terminal on generator. Repeat voltage tests at 1500 RPM, if it's charging again you need new cables, clean grounding points and generator mount brackets and hardware. Here's 21 page .pdf on Generators. There will be a test. Bring a sharpened #2 pencil and a 12 box of Sam Adams.
Thanks for the information. It may be next weekend before I can do anything else. Ill update my findings. I's sure there are a few others out there that are wondering how this turns out.