Charging System
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: McCook, NE
Charging System
I was wondering where the ammeter gauge should be pointing with the engine running at high idle and all the lights and other components turned off? Mine is pointing straight up and I have 6.3 volts at the battery with the engine running, I thought that there should be 7.4 volts with the engine running. When I turn on the lights the needle heads toward the discharge side of the gauge. Is there a regulator in the generator or is it supposed to charge all the time?
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Santa Clarita
I'm assuming you are running a 6V system? Personally, I don't trust amp guages and prefer to use a volt meter. You should be charging at more than 6.3V in order to supply charge to the battery. You can hook up a voltmeter to the battery and take a reading. Then start the truck and see what the reading is while it's running. You can go from there.
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,516
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From: W. Central FL.
With only 6.3 V measured at the battery with the engine running at high idle, you have a charging problem somewhere. Sounds now like you are running off the battery. As we discussed in your other thread, 6.3--6.4 is static voltage of the battery. When I say, high idle, run the engine up a couple thousand rpm and test battery voltage.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,599
Likes: 34
From: Rockingham, VA
The voltage regulator is on the firewall and has connections going to the generator Field (F) and Armature (A) terminals as well as a B for the battery. When the regulator senses that the battery is charged, the contacts open so it stops charging the battery. When it senses that the battery charge is low, it closes the contacts and allows the battery to be charged.
This is how my regulator looks, the rectangular box above the starter relay. I think yours will be the same.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: McCook, NE
This is where I am currently on the project. I purchased a new battery and polarized the generator with a jumper wire between the Bat and F terminals. I think this all started when I too the battery cables off to charge the battery. I still think that I have a generator issue but I am not sure. I have had the engine running but the ammeter is straight up. When I turn on the lights it heads down to the discharge side. When the lights are turned off the ammeter goes back to neutral. An I seeing this because the battery has a full charge or is the generator not flowing current?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,298
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From: NM
The engine has to be above 1200 RPM for the generator to produce power. It won't do anything at idle. With a fresh battery, with the lights on, at 1500 RPM or so the needle on the ammeter will be at about 0 or slightly positive.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: McCook, NE
The motor was running at high idle with the chock bulled half out so im going to guess that it was at or above 1500 rpm. With the lights on the gauge was halfway between discharge and neutral.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: McCook, NE
I am thinking the next test is a "motoring test" or a (Bat - F) terminal connection to see if the ammeter goes full charge. That will have to wait till it gets a little nicer outside. Thanks for all the info and if someone thinks of something else to try just through it out there.
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,516
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From: W. Central FL.
Forget about the gauge, ampmeter, that is just an indication. Lets get down to some troubleshooting.
Back at the OP you say you have 6.3 v at the battery. This tells me you have a meter. Expect 6.3-6.4 at idle, that is battery voltage and the truck will run at that. What we need to do is:
Pull the choke and bring the truck to high idle, 1500-2000 RPM, running faster than idle.
Measure voltage across the battery. If you do not see an increase in voltage above 6.3 V you have a charging issue. You want to see 7 V range at this time.
To go another step, with the engine running at high idle, turn on the headlights and measure battery voltage. Voltage will read less than 6 volts if the charging system is not working. If the charging system is working, the voltage could drop to slightly over 6V, may even hold at 7v but it will drop some from the high.
Back at the OP you say you have 6.3 v at the battery. This tells me you have a meter. Expect 6.3-6.4 at idle, that is battery voltage and the truck will run at that. What we need to do is:
Pull the choke and bring the truck to high idle, 1500-2000 RPM, running faster than idle.
Measure voltage across the battery. If you do not see an increase in voltage above 6.3 V you have a charging issue. You want to see 7 V range at this time.
To go another step, with the engine running at high idle, turn on the headlights and measure battery voltage. Voltage will read less than 6 volts if the charging system is not working. If the charging system is working, the voltage could drop to slightly over 6V, may even hold at 7v but it will drop some from the high.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
This is where I am currently on the project. I purchased a new battery and polarized the generator with a jumper wire between the Bat and F terminals. I think this all started when I too the battery cables off to charge the battery. I still think that I have a generator issue but I am not sure. I have had the engine running but the ammeter is straight up. When I turn on the lights it heads down to the discharge side. When the lights are turned off the ammeter goes back to neutral. An I seeing this because the battery has a full charge or is the generator not flowing current?
With a FORD, per the manual, (Engine OFF) disconnect the BAT and FLD terminals from the regulator and briefly touch the two wires together for a second. That's it. May see a spark, OK.
If the battery is fully charged, the ammeter by nature doesn't do anything. It's.being maintained and so stays center mass. You want to measure that the proper temperature compensated voltage is applied to the battery and that the generator is providing sufficient current with the headlights, heater blower and whatever else is on. Should be 30 amps. Depending on the temperature, can be a shade over 15 volts. Er, no. 6 volt system. Definitely over 7 volts easy
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Rockingham, VA
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Freshman User
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From: McCook, NE
Update. Repolarized the system by disconnecting the bat and f terminals and touching them together. Battery reads 6.3 with the engine off. Battery voltage reads 6.3 with the engine running greater the 1500 RPM. Battery reads 6.0 Volts with the engine running, the lights and heater fan on. I disconnected the negative battery terminal and the engine stopped.