When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I know I read this somewhere on the FTE IDI forum but now I can't find it. I'm about to adjust my IP to modify my timing mark.
So...
If I want to adjust my timing so that my strobe timing reading moves a few degrees clockwise, then do I need to rotate my IP mounting connection to be that direction? Or is it opposing directions? My guess is if I want the crankshaft gear to move opposing to the IP gear, then that is counteracted by the camshaft gear.
as in this image:
and this;
Actually, I just confused myself. Maybe a better way to ask this is:
Which way do I turn the IP mount ing plate so that when I retighten it down, I will have added some degrees TDC? Or subtracted some degree TDC?
And how much of a turn accounts for one degree? Are we talking minor minor minor adjustments? Joe Schmoe's youtube video uses turnbuckles and if we are dealing with a few threads worth of adjustment, I'm in for a cruddy day in the van.
Rotate the top of the IP towards the passenger side to advance the timing. A change of about 1/16" where the IP bolts on will make a noticable difference.
Also, just to confirm, on the ferret meter: When I adjust the degree setting, I'm dealing with ATDC right? When it says 9degrees in Joe Schmoe's youtube video, he's displaying it at 9ATDC right? And if I desire to have my van set to 7 BTDC, that is -7 ATDC, but on the ferret, there is no negative degrees. So is that 83 degrees, right? Sorry I don't have a manual for this Ferret meter, so I gotta ask the hive mind.
the ferret isn't a timing meter.the ferret is a converter box which simply reads the fuel pulse of the #1 (or #4 in vans as it's easy to get to as i understand) and converts this pulse of fuel into a spark pulse.this way here,you can set your timing light (with built in advance) to 8 (plus or minus 2) BTDC.basically just makes it so you'll time her like she was a gasser.
the rest of that same thread linked above will explain how to use the ferret box w/ timing light (w/timing advance feature.)
skip to post #5;
the ferret isn't a timing meter.the ferret is a converter box which simply reads the fuel pulse of the #1 (or #4 in vans as it's easy to get to as i understand) and converts this pulse of fuel into a spark pulse.this way here,you can set your timing light (with built in advance) to 8 (plus or minus 2) BTDC.basically just makes it so you'll time her like she was a gasser.
the rest of that same thread linked above will explain how to use the ferret box w/ timing light (w/timing advance feature.)
skip to post #5;
unless your unscrewing a glow plug and inserting a probe with a window in it,then you'll never set timing ATDC.
stop calling Mac; Joe Schmoe, or he's gunna come pay ya a visit lol.
Wait. Joe = Mac? Well, I guess I didn't put that together. Now I know.
Wait again. #4 in the Vans? You are kidding me right? It's 1000x easier to get to #1. I have a fuel filter housing and Hypermax air intake crap and the GP harness over #4. As in this image?
You can use 1 or 4, doesnt matter. The timing adapter for the Ford style ferret adapter uses the weird (prone to leaking do-dad) on the #1 injector line for pickups, and #4 on vans.
oh well that's ok.go for #1 then.they probably put that oem timing meter adapter on that #4 line instead of #1.even looks like it kinda in your diagram.no matter to you with your timing tools. (i think if i remember right,it was a rotunda timing meter that makes use of those do dads lol.)
just shine up the hard line somewhere accessible on #1 or #4 and your piezo clamp will read the pulse and the box will convert to a spark flash for ya.
Ha ha, Joe Schmoe checking in here! Ford, no worries, I'm a lover not a fighter, besides any press is good press. What I have read so far is true. The ferret is just a "pick up", it has nothing to do with timing, it just converts the IP pulse into a usable signal for the timing gun. There is no BTDC for this method, and no need for math. Advance your light for the degrees you want to tune it to, and point it towards the marks on your harmonic balancer. For what it is worth, # 1 and #4 are both usable, and if you want do get rid of the timing do dad on the #1 injector line, you can replace it with a #1 van injector line which doesn't have it, if you can find one. To make it simple, the top of the pump towards the drivers side fender is retarding timing, towards the passengers side is advancing it.
oh well that's ok.go for #1 then.they probably put that oem timing meter adapter on that #4 line instead of #1.even looks like it kinda in your diagram.no matter to you with your timing tools. (i think if i remember right,it was a rotunda timing meter that makes use of those do dads lol.)
just shine up the hard line somewhere accessible on #1 or #4 and your piezo clamp will read the pulse and the box will convert to a spark flash for ya.
Originally Posted by akamacgyver
Ha ha, Joe Schmoe checking in here! Ford, no worries, I'm a lover not a fighter, besides any press is good press. What I have read so far is true. The ferret is just a "pick up", it has nothing to do with timing, it just converts the IP pulse into a usable signal for the timing gun. There is no BTDC for this method, and no need for math. Advance your light for the degrees you want to tune it to, and point it towards the marks on your harmonic balancer. For what it is worth, # 1 and #4 are both usable, and if you want do get rid of the timing do dad on the #1 injector line, you can replace it with a #1 van injector line which doesn't have it, if you can find one. To make it simple, the top of the pump towards the drivers side fender is retarding timing, towards the passengers side is advancing it.
Good luck,
Mac.
Thank Zeus that I don't have to use the #4. I worked on the van just now (installing a Tach and removing the GVOD controllers) and I checked to see if #4 was accessible. Not a chance from the front, and I pulled the doghouse to route the tach wires back, and getting to #4 was pretty tough from the rear too. I have all of the following blocking the #4 injector line: AC pump, fuel filter housing, GP harness, Hypermax air intake filter holder, CDR, Rear heater core hosing, Rear AC lines, and some return lines.
#4 is by far the hardest one to access in the van, whereas the whole passenger side is pretty open (thank you hypermax) and the rear drivers side 2 lines are ok to get at from the doghouse opening.
Watching your truck video tutorials makes me jealous. This job is a pain to do with a van. Mac, I bought a 9/16" wrench which will have a three-way with a grinder and a vice tomorrow. THanks for the tip.
Bummer, yeah, heat does wonders! If you don't have a torch, try using a lever such as a piece of pipe over the end of the wrench to avoid the impact of the hammer. Also, you could grind the part where you want it to bend a little thinner so it will bend there more readily.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
