I'm guessing if you don't have a torch you also don't have a welder... Makes it pretty easy to hit those angles.

Not to hi-jack the thread, but what are the consequences of NOT polishing the injector line where the piezio clamp goes?
I've used my ferret 6-8 times and only cleaned it twice, I figured if I got a good signal it was fine.
So will rust/paint only keep the setup from sending the light or will it actually change the timing too?

Thanks,
Joshua

 

Good question. I tried to use my meter yesterady, and any RPM greater than 1500 would jump around. I suspect I need to polish my line better, so I'm going to do that.


My 2nd attempt at a 9/16 bent tool went much better. MAP torch made short work of the wrench.

 

Buahahahaha, yes MAP gas makes everything more fun! Or at least more melty... Just don't use it on aluminum, haha

 

I had the MAP torch sitting right next to me, but I thought "I should be able to bend this wrench 45 degrees without heat." Four solid thumps with the sledge with the wrench in the vice, and it was about 30 degrees. I was thinking this was going to be quick. One more thump and it'll be right on. Nope. The POS broke in two so fast you could have called me Uri Geller.

In hindsight, I should have used the MAP torch.

Back on topic, Ford's design to access those IP nuts is ridiculous. RIDICULOUS. Maybe it's a little easier in the truck, but I can't be that much better than the van. HORRIBLE.

 

Agreed on the ridiculous part, but that was IH, not Ford. As far as the cleaning goes, the only downfall I have experienced was no pick-up of a signal at all. Low batteries cause all kinds of fits though, like tach numbers jumping all over the place. Make sure you have a fresh one in there.

 

My batteries are good and topped off (I have a PV array on top with a charge controller). Maybe I picked a bad spot for my ferret clamp.

 

Mac means bad 9v on the ferret, causes wonky readings. Bad batteries on the the vehicle would only matter if the regulator for the alternator was dead and it wasn't charging properly, IMO.

He has mentioned that before, which is the only reason I know what he meant.

 

That totally makes sense, cuz the ferret doesn't connect to the van battery (the gun does). THanks for the 9v tip, I'll check that tomorrow.

 

I cleaned the lines again and still got the jumping in readings. Replaced the 9V and the ferret reads smooth.

So, my results after three tests are:

Test 1: 12* at 2050 rpms
Test 2: 12* at 2010 rpms
Test 3: 11* at 2080 rpms

I'm looking at bringing it down to 6* and see what happens. This design is terrible. I'm never doing this myself ever again. That Passenger-side nut is nearly impossible to get to in the van. I might even have to go thru the doghouse cuz I have yet to get it loose. Hopefully things will work out.



Also, My van doesnt have the "O-" marking on my damper. I'm just eyeballing it on the center of the bushing at the bottom of the flange. Is that ok? As in this image:

 

This might be a stupid question, but you did clean off the timing plate, right? On mine I didn't think it was there at first because the grease/dirt made it totally invisible.

 

Yep. Very clean. wiped it down and still no lines. I'll post a pic later.




Well, I successfully adjusted the timing. It wasn't as bad as I thought it'd be. It still wasn't awesome, notably the position of the heater core hoses and other hot elements. The van's rear heater core supply lines go vertically in front of the IP, so they are very much in the way. Once the engine is up to temp, those lines are crazy hot.

Mega thanks to everyone, especially Mac for the turnbuckle and "L"-shaped 9/16" wrench ideas. There was no way I could have adjusted my timing from 12* to 8* without the turnbuckle, cuz I think I only turned it 4 threads (I have a finer-thread turnbuckle than the Youtube video). Four threads amounted to maybe 1/8" of rotation of the 3/4" IP wrench.

results:

8* at 1870rpms
8* at 2000rpms
7* at 2040rpms

I filled up the tank and I'll test drive it tomorrow. if things are better, then I may leave it.

Secondary note: In the van, the easiest nut to access is the passenger side one, but only if you have the "L"-shaped wrench. The other two are blocked by the fuel filter housing, rear heater core lines, and a line from IP to the fuel filter housing. I didn't even use the "L" shaped wrench on the driver's side and top nuts, cuz there wasn't enough room to maneuver the handle.

 

I've adjusted the timing to be 6*-7* and took it for a spin. After a rather unscientific 50-mile testdrive which was mostly highway, I calculated my mpg to be 11.9. That was about 1mpg better than before I tuned it, but I'm still very very very much less than my average prior to installing the new IP (which was 16-19mpg)

I am going to turn down my fuel screw a flat, and I'm hoping that will bring my MPG back up, but it's not looking promising. Should I be timing this to a different degree? 2*, 3*, 4*? Moving it from 12* to 7* is better, but nowhere near what my efficiency was with my bad old IP. Any suggestions?

 

After re-reading the Hypermax Manual, I found this:

"The injection pump timing is retarded two degrees by loosening the three
mounting stud nuts and rotating the injection pump clockwise two degrees (as viewed from the drive end or front of the engine) this corresponds to 1/16" on the circumference of the mounting flange. If these instructions are not understood by the installer take the vehicle to a qualified diesel injection
shop for these adjustments."

I'll adjust the timing again. I'll try 2* and see how it performs.

 

engine timing is 6-10 (8 +/- 2) BTDC.
were did you get your ip? what's their return policy?

 

This is an R&D IP. I doubt the IP is bad.

He's been coaching me thru this whole process via email. We are currently trying to time this thing to maximize the Garrett turbo output. He suggested I try 4* to try and get the turbo to light up. He thinks lowering my timing will get the turbo to function better, thus resolve my fuel efficiency problem.