thanks for an informative thread fellas. I'm faceing a heads-off rebuild and have a rebuilt IP for my 6.9 L - any tips on IP remove/replace will be welcomed.

 

how to properly change the ip and injectors with pics can be found here:

!!!WARNING! Before proceeding read this important note!
Remove the top cover at your own risk. If you remove it, and do not reinstall it properly, your engine could enter a runaway state upon restarting. Pay particular attention to the way the fuel shut off arm must fit in the pump body, and ensure that you can hear a good click when you apply power to the pump BEFORE you attempt to start the truck. If the pump is not assembled correctly, full throttle would be applied and disconnecting power from the pump would not stop it. Only the removal of fuel or air would.

TikiWiki : IDI Fuel Injection Servicing

 

mucho gracias 250 that's along the lines of what I was hopeing for.

 

at a recent IDI rally setup by Mel and friends this month,some dyno runs are in.Mel timed a great number of trucks.
i thought id share this interesting one with you guys here because it shows just how important keeping this engine properly tuned up is.

dyno run before properly tuned and after:
Name/HP/torque
Corey 134 283 old injectors, unknown timing
Corey second run 156.35 313.74 new injectors, timed to 9.5 BTDC (pulse method)
(this truck is turbo charged)

so here in this example we see Corey's truck was down 22.35 hp & 30.74 ft lbs from worn injectors and improper engine timing only!!!!!

in other words,by tuning up Corey's truck,he gained 14.3% HP and 9.8% ft lbs!

you may be thinking,yeah sure but his injectors may have been older than gods dog.Corey states the injectors were just slightly over their life expectancy of 105k miles on turbo G codes.a new set of BB's were installed as replacements.

still running your original injectors with who knows how many miles?
still running your idi timed by ear?
if so,you may be down on performance over 10% like Corey was.
possibly much more if your running on an old tired ip too.

 

I think I am who makes a good injection pump and where I can get one? And what injectors should I run?

 

my mag pickup that i scored from another used meter bit the dust!
that's why once i installed my turbo iv been having issues getting her timed and probably why economy didn't go up and it's actually been decreasing.
since the mag pickup isn't reading correctly anymore the value on the meter is reading inaccurate.
i figured this out last night when fine tuning my TPS a bit more,i decided to see about adjusting the engine by sound and feel rather than the meter.
iv got the diesel rattle back that i remember before the turbo and she feel's greatly more free going down the road.
fyi; retarded engine timing will cause the truck to feel like it has lower rear axle gearing when you let off the throttle.
advancing it to get the good old diesel clatter back,she goes like she used to,and with the E40D which drops rpms way down low when you let off completely,she feels like she sports 3.08's downhill again (iv got 3.84 actual gearing.)
this last time i had the meter on it is when the mag pickup started reading incorrectly.i thought about it while adjusting and knew the rpm idle seemed way too high,thus the need to adjust the tps after and see if i could fine tune better than before too.
iv got her far closer by ear/feel for now than a worn out mag pickup can by far.i must of advanced a solid 5 degree's it was so retarded.boost is way quicker and she's smokes a touch when getting going now.
time to ditch this old meter crap and go ferret adapter w/light so i can get her reliably on the $.

stay clear of these old discontinued meters guys.they're not worth the hassle.been wasting $ in fuel and didn't know it.
if i could buy a new mag pickup i probably would.i really liked this meter when the pickup worked right.must have finally broken the wires putting it in the box the last time.it always was a little sketchy,but i knew how to read the meter to catch the true value.now it's just all off.steady reading now,but steadily wrong.

don't ya wish we had it easy like the power stroke with a pcm to control the timing for us?
ah well,where would all the fun be if we had nothing to constantly keep in tune? we'd get bored guys.
new timing equip ordered.
now if i can figure out this "new" (lmao) method out,i'll post some pics w/ basic instructions for this too.

 

thanks for all info. I have the block out of my 250 awating rings and bearings.
then put back together.

 

well i never had to.Mac did it for us nicely.i keep forgetting to add his great vids to this thread.
as explained in the vids,this one isn't around 5 ATDC (varying upon cetane and elevation) but measured BTDC instead.


this method is read at much faster engine speeds @ 2000 RPM.
this method is 8 degrees BTDC (plus or minus 2 is within spec) there is no measurement of cetane nor elevation that alters via setting timing using this method.

here's Mac showing how to time via the pulse method with nice new tools readily available;
so as Mac shows you in the vids,but you may not see very well are these marks/lines.the 0 degree line and the line in the damper are what you'll be lining up (only when the engine is off do you loosen and twist the ip just as previously explained) and your timing advance built into the light is what makes it flash at the correct time.
simplistic really just like the older method was.just different and whats much nicer really is that the tools are brand new and in full production.unlike the brand new "timing meters" still for sale,those are more for professional/full time money making use.there's no need to pay for one of those for self use.the ferret has been known to work very well for many years now.

 

Ford,

That last pic you posted is awesome, I just watched the vid I made again, I didn't explain very well what you are supposed to be looking for down there. One thing I did was paint the timing mark on my dampener white, and then paint the dampener gray. My mark shows up plain as day, as you can see in the video. I just timed a friends truck and we needed to clean off the mark, just to identify it, so make sure yours is scrubbed up good for easier timing.

 

ok just to verify. When I set the timing light to 8 degree, then the light should flash when the timing mark on the pulley is lining up with the "0" TDC mark correct?

Also thank you so much for this article and the video! Very cool! I have a parts truck with a new injector pump and injectors, and those parts are about to go on the truck I am keeping, that could really use a new pump and injectors.

 

you got it Jake.

 

Awesome thanks! going to order these two tools on monday, once they get here I will swap out the pump and injectors. This is my first diesel(technically second because I bought the parts truck about a week before this one that I plan to keep) and I have learned a lot already.

looking at this chart:



It looks like you get slightly more MPG with more BTDC timing, I also noticed in the video that Mac says "my timing is at 9 right now, I might tweak it a little bit but thats pretty damn close"

Im guessing 8 is the value most people should set their timing to since that is what is mentioned and that is also what he sets the advance to on his light... Can anything be gained by setting it to 9, like more MPG, also if you set it to 9 would that make engine temps higher or lower than setting it to 8?

Thanks guys.

Also I have a 9/16 wrench that is going to meet my grinding wheel very soon lol

EDIT: Now I am reading there is a main adjustment for fuel, and every turn of the screwdrivers is called a flat.... who knows if and how much this has been adjusted by the previous owner.... thinking I am going to have to buy a pyrometer...

 

Since the video I have played with the timing and settled around 7 degrees. It seems to be the sweet spot for my engine you can play with yours when you get the tools. A "flat" is one side of the hexagon screw head or 60 degrees. I would highly recommend a pyrometer.

Good luck,

Mac.

 

oh cool Mac, so what were you looking at that made you settle around 7 degrees? was that tuning for the most MPG, or were you tuning according to temps on the pyrometer.

Just trying to get an idea of what I should be looking for and doing once I install the new IP, injectors, pyrometer, and set the timing...

Thank you!

 

well tooldiscounter.com also has a timing light.... I wonder if its any good.

edit: just ordered both tools from tooldiscounter.com:

https://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemD...kup=FERV765-02
https://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemD...?lookup=ESP125

The one I bought uses a 6.5mm clamp.... The one Mac bought uses a 1/4 in clamp (6.35mm) so the difference is only 0.15mm. For whatever reason the one I bought is $20.55 less.... Im thinking its simply because they have more in stock of that one

So I was able to order the Ferret diesel injection detector and timing light from Tooldiscounter, total came to $253 after shipping, not bad at all. I just hope this timing light works good.