4 Core Super Cooling Radiator
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Townsend, MT
4 Core Super Cooling Radiator
Does anybody know where to get a 4 core Super Cooling radiator? RockAuto used to have them (made by VistaPro I think) but no longer list them. NPD lists one but I ordered it and it turned out to only be a three core.
Ideas?
Ideas?
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Panama City
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Townsend, MT
Does anyone have a vistapro part number?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2014
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if you go with Alum you wont need that many row's, also its lighter and dissipates heat much quicker, im replacing mine with this one when we start the resto in April.
1977 Ford F-250 ALL ALUMINUM RADIATOR 5.8L 8 351 | All Aluminum Radiator | Ford Parts
1977 Ford F-250 ALL ALUMINUM RADIATOR 5.8L 8 351 | All Aluminum Radiator | Ford Parts
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,522
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From: Townsend, MT
if you go with Alum you wont need that many row's, also its lighter and dissipates heat much quicker, im replacing mine with this one when we start the resto in April.
1977 Ford F-250 ALL ALUMINUM RADIATOR 5.8L 8 351 | All Aluminum Radiator | Ford Parts
1977 Ford F-250 ALL ALUMINUM RADIATOR 5.8L 8 351 | All Aluminum Radiator | Ford Parts
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Panama City
I bought and installed a 3 core alum radiator in my old Bronco a couple of years ago.It runs consistently at 195 in the hot florida summer stop and go traffic.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Actually a copper/brass radiator is at least twice as efficient as an aluminum radiator. Different internal design makes them work OK.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
I bought a Champion for the 64 a while back. Haven't installed it. Recently they blasted an email to customers asking for high res install photographs, of how things go and any fitment issues etc. Hm. Maybe I can send them a bill, too.
One thing I'm reading is that (supposedly) aluminum radiators are more susceptible to corrosion than brass, to the point that while tap water has been used forever as part of the glycol 50/50 mix, distilled or demineralized is required for use with aluminum. Champion has a warning label on the box stating as such.
One thing I'm reading is that (supposedly) aluminum radiators are more susceptible to corrosion than brass, to the point that while tap water has been used forever as part of the glycol 50/50 mix, distilled or demineralized is required for use with aluminum. Champion has a warning label on the box stating as such.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,997
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From: NE Ohio
I bought a Champion for the 64 a while back. Haven't installed it. Recently they blasted an email to customers asking for high res install photographs, of how things go and any fitment issues etc. Hm. Maybe I can send them a bill, too.
One thing I'm reading is that (supposedly) aluminum radiators are more susceptible to corrosion than brass, to the point that while tap water has been used forever as part of the glycol 50/50 mix, distilled or demineralized is required for use with aluminum. Champion has a warning label on the box stating as such.
One thing I'm reading is that (supposedly) aluminum radiators are more susceptible to corrosion than brass, to the point that while tap water has been used forever as part of the glycol 50/50 mix, distilled or demineralized is required for use with aluminum. Champion has a warning label on the box stating as such.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Seemed to me, a new all aluminum radiator (in cast iron blocks like Fords) would want the newer type gold/platinum coolant or whatever they call it now. So I asked Champion about that. They said no, use the old green stuff. It's the engine that determines the coolant type from what I'm reading too.
Probably what I'll end up doing at radiator replacement time is find the block drains and do a real flush and drain of the system, and replace thermostat, flush heater core, maybe replace water pump etc.
Probably what I'll end up doing at radiator replacement time is find the block drains and do a real flush and drain of the system, and replace thermostat, flush heater core, maybe replace water pump etc.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: starship enterprise
My local radiator shop can get them, not sure of the brand, but I bought one from auto zone years ago and the radiator guy has fixed it a few times, he said those were really thin construction. I believe he is right. The ones he sells are the real deal and about $600 and heavier construction. If you buy one, watch the thickness. I poked a hole in mine changing the fan clutch by bumping the fan blade into the radiator. They are thin! I have tried a few of the other higher efficiency smaller radiators, they work all right, My thoughts are that the bigger camper special radiator is better just because it has a lot more capacity, more volume. Just my $0.02.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Townsend, MT
My local radiator shop can get them, not sure of the brand, but I bought one from auto zone years ago and the radiator guy has fixed it a few times, he said those were really thin construction. I believe he is right. The ones he sells are the real deal and about $600 and heavier construction. If you buy one, watch the thickness. I poked a hole in mine changing the fan clutch by bumping the fan blade into the radiator. They are thin! I have tried a few of the other higher efficiency smaller radiators, they work all right, My thoughts are that the bigger camper special radiator is better just because it has a lot more capacity, more volume. Just my $0.02.
Maybe I just need to bite the bullet and get a $600 or $700 radiator - I'm going to have to do some serious penny pinching.
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