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Feb 15, 2015 | 08:30 PM

#46

Backdraft-14

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Joined: Jan 2012

Posts: 155

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From: Southern California

The potential issue I see would be the drain tube is only connected to the drain valve by a non-clamped pushed on fuel line. Depending on the pressure coming out it could potential blow it off and fill the valley with diesel.

Robert

Feb 15, 2015 | 08:54 PM

#47

ZombiePopper

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Joined: May 2014

Posts: 238

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From: Kansas

Damn,
Didn't consider that...

Feb 15, 2015 | 09:14 PM

#48

petrokiller

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Nov 2010

Posts: 1,408

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From: Ringgold, Ga

I think I paid around $140 after coupon. I forgot to mention you need to purchase the scan gauge 2 online and use the code for the 30 percent off.. Then go to the store and pick it up.

Feb 15, 2015 | 09:14 PM

#49

ZombiePopper

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Joined: May 2014

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From: Kansas

Ok next question,
What's required to rebuild a draîn valve?
Just o-rings?
I have a large box of assorted o-rings (for various tractor repairs)...

Feb 16, 2015 | 12:34 AM

#50

Backdraft-14

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Joined: Jan 2012

Posts: 155

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From: Southern California

The o-ring size are 1/2" od, 1/4" id, 1/8" material, "Courtesy of Springer Pop"
As for install this is a great reference:
Welcome to guzzle's PSD Fuel Filter Drain Valve Repair Web Page Just make sure they are fuel rated o-rings

Robert

Feb 16, 2015 | 06:55 AM

#51

Tugly

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Joined: Jan 2011

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From: Puget Sound

I've used this kit on two separate trucks without issue: [LINK]

Feb 18, 2015 | 12:31 PM

#52

ZombiePopper

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Joined: May 2014

Posts: 238

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From: Kansas

Great links and info guys it's exactly what I needed thanks.
Why are there so many options on o-ring material though and what works best for the drain valve/fuel bowl?

Feb 20, 2015 | 08:12 AM

#53

Tugly

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Joined: Jan 2011

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From: Puget Sound

I used to know this. I want to say one works with biodiesel, and the other... not so much. There should be documentation on riffraffdiesel.com to explain the differences. If not, call 'em up. Clay is one of the parts gurus here.