Cranky
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 14,069
Likes: 17
From: Melbourne, Ky
After all these years of owning my truck, I now know what that damn noise is! Thanks!
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Senior User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 238
Likes: 2
From: Kansas
I agree 100% I didn't mean to imply I was going to let it go, I was just wondering if it could suck air if it was leaking?
Or if it would run rough? etc etc
I appreciate the assistance and information guys.
Or if it would run rough? etc etc
I appreciate the assistance and information guys.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
James,
The fuel bowl valve leak is a super common issue on our trucks. It will not cause anything more than a wet spot and diesel smell in the cab. The fix is easy, lots of you tube videos about it and parts are cheap.
Fluorosilicone Drain Valve Orings Set - Riffraff Diesel Performance
Complete Fuel Bowl Seal Kit 99-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance
The fuel bowl valve leak is a super common issue on our trucks. It will not cause anything more than a wet spot and diesel smell in the cab. The fix is easy, lots of you tube videos about it and parts are cheap.
Fluorosilicone Drain Valve Orings Set - Riffraff Diesel Performance
Complete Fuel Bowl Seal Kit 99-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance
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Senior User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 238
Likes: 2
From: Kansas
Ok I took my multimeter out and did some checking,
I tested the relay on top of the engine and I'm confused by my readings, could someone tell me if the limits are correct or bad?
Pass batt. 12.97 off and 14.46 run
Dr batt 12.97 off and 14.50 run
Constant? Passenger side big lug 12.92 off and 14.56 run
Big lug drivers side -.001-.002? Off and key on (not running) -.005? Running -.100 (fluctuates slightly off and key on)
frt small lug 14.33 running
back small lug 14.35 running
The thing that confuses me is the key off and on, drivers side big lug, readings
I can hear and feel the relay click on when I turn the key to on (not running)
I tested the relay on top of the engine and I'm confused by my readings, could someone tell me if the limits are correct or bad?
Pass batt. 12.97 off and 14.46 run
Dr batt 12.97 off and 14.50 run
Constant? Passenger side big lug 12.92 off and 14.56 run
Big lug drivers side -.001-.002? Off and key on (not running) -.005? Running -.100 (fluctuates slightly off and key on)
frt small lug 14.33 running
back small lug 14.35 running
The thing that confuses me is the key off and on, drivers side big lug, readings
I can hear and feel the relay click on when I turn the key to on (not running)
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Your alternator is charging about 14.5 volts, this is good. As for the GP lug on the relay, it won't read diddly on a warm truck that's running. It only goes high when you first turn the key (up to 2 minutes max on an Alaskan morning), and the warmer it is, the shorter it stays on - down to just a few seconds.
The ultimate Glow Plug Relay test: One probe on each lug. 12 Volts when relay is off - zero volts when relay is on. These numbers are approximate, so don't worry about two decimal places.
The ultimate Glow Plug Relay test: One probe on each lug. 12 Volts when relay is off - zero volts when relay is on. These numbers are approximate, so don't worry about two decimal places.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 238
Likes: 2
From: Kansas
This is the relay I tested, did I accidentally test the intake heater relay?
So with the key off I should put 1 probe on each big lug and I should have 12v correct?
Ok I'm getting
12.94 v between the 2 large lugs key off
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,405
Likes: 4
12.94v across the two big lugs with key off is relay off - battery voltage. With the truck cold, measure the voltage across the lugs and watch while someone turns the key to on. That will be the voltage drop across the relay.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 249
From: Ringgold, Ga
James the closest lug to the passenger side should read 12V even with the key in your pocket. LOL
It has constant power. If its cold enough the pcm says have GPR lets heat this baby up. And then clicks just sending that constant 12V to all the GP's if they all work.
The LED mod that was mentioned is like $10 with wire and led at Radio Shack. This tells you that your GPR is energizing those GP's.
I have the mod and almost any cold start even in the 40's my GPR is energized for 2 minutes. Even on for 1st start in the summer. You can also watch your dash volt guage for the drop and rise.
Here ya go
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...wmriceman.html
It has constant power. If its cold enough the pcm says have GPR lets heat this baby up. And then clicks just sending that constant 12V to all the GP's if they all work.
The LED mod that was mentioned is like $10 with wire and led at Radio Shack. This tells you that your GPR is energizing those GP's.
I have the mod and almost any cold start even in the 40's my GPR is energized for 2 minutes. Even on for 1st start in the summer. You can also watch your dash volt guage for the drop and rise.
Here ya go
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...wmriceman.html
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 249
From: Ringgold, Ga
Here is my F250 with High idle warm up going. Outside was 18 dg. My EOT was at 38.5 when I started my truck probably 7 mins earlier and it went up about 50 dg.
That's a scanguage II that I view my sensors with. I like it a lot for the money. Search 30% off coupon code for Advanced Auto and get it pretty cheap.
That's a scanguage II that I view my sensors with. I like it a lot for the money. Search 30% off coupon code for Advanced Auto and get it pretty cheap.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 238
Likes: 2
From: Kansas
Thanks Brad, I really like that scan tool, I'm going to have to look that up, how much was it if you don't mind me asking(?). Here in KS we were down to single digit (4 degrees w/windchill) and my high idle jumped up to about 1000 rpm's with the temps.
I'm sure you guys are sick of my questions but I want to verify that what I did today is "ok" or a "no-go".
Since my drain valve is leaking off and on, I want to get a fuel bowl rebuild kit, a new drain valve and a drain valve rebuild kit (so I can rebuild my old drain valve and just swap them out as needed (spares are good).
But here in KS we're fixing to get hit with some snow and MOnday is a holiday, so if I ordered these parts I probably wouldn't get them till middle of the week (best case) or the end of the week.
So given that my super duty is my driver AND the snow coming tonite I really need my truck.
Here's what I did (.temporary only until I get the replacement parts);
I grabbed a length (15" or so) of fuel injection hose, and I clamped an end of it to my drain valve tube. On the other end I clamped a plug to stop any diesel from dripping out.
It's not ideal and it's not the proper way, but gets my truck back into operational status.
Is this okay?
Can it cause a problem/damage?
I'm sure you guys are sick of my questions but I want to verify that what I did today is "ok" or a "no-go".
Since my drain valve is leaking off and on, I want to get a fuel bowl rebuild kit, a new drain valve and a drain valve rebuild kit (so I can rebuild my old drain valve and just swap them out as needed (spares are good).
But here in KS we're fixing to get hit with some snow and MOnday is a holiday, so if I ordered these parts I probably wouldn't get them till middle of the week (best case) or the end of the week.
So given that my super duty is my driver AND the snow coming tonite I really need my truck.
Here's what I did (.temporary only until I get the replacement parts);
I grabbed a length (15" or so) of fuel injection hose, and I clamped an end of it to my drain valve tube. On the other end I clamped a plug to stop any diesel from dripping out.
It's not ideal and it's not the proper way, but gets my truck back into operational status.
Is this okay?
Can it cause a problem/damage?