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GPR voltage drop is easy. Put the ground probe of your volt meter on the negative battery post, then have someone turn your ignition to on (not start). Use the positive probe to read voltage at each of the fat terminals on the relay while it is engaged. You will hear it click on with the key, and off again when it times out. Voltage on the output terminal shouldn't be more than 2 volts less than the input terminal. The input terminal and the positive post of the battery should be within a half a volt of each other.
WOW!
You guys weren't joking about the cam sensors!!!
Since I already had a new BWD (Borg-Warner) unit, I figured I'd throw it in until I got a motorcraft unit...
Well,
My truck wouldn't even start! Didn't even try!
And the "service engine soon" light came on as well!
I put the old cam sensor back in, turned the key "on", the WTS light went out, I counted to 10, and hit the key-
BOOM
within 2 secs of cranking the key she fired up immediately, cold even and not plugged in!
You guys know your stuff!
thomabb thanks for the testing procedure,
1 question though-
With the hood up and key "on" I'm hearing a "buzzing" around the GPR (pass inner fender),
Is that normal?
I'm hearing the clicking you mentioned, but I've never noticed the buzzing until I was standing there with the hood up.
Does it sound like a cheap sex toy? Shot in the dark - vacuum pump. Best way to know for sure is to sit key on engine off and wait for the buzzing to stop. Then start switching your environmental controls around to consume vacuum. The pump should eventually kick back on.
A cheap way to check for voltage drop is to get a voltmeter that plugs into the cigarette lighter. An even cheaper way is to leave the door open and watch the dome light dim. As the others have said, wait longer for the glow plugs to do their job, and I think you will be fine. The colder it is, the longer I would wait. If it gets below zero degrees F, you can even cycle the key off after 60 seconds and do it again before attempting to crank the engine over. You may like the idea of having a glow plug LED installed. It is a very easy and enlightening (pun partially intended) mod to do.The WTS light is really just a reminder, not a true indicator of if/when the glow plugs are activated.
You guys are right it's the vaccum pump.
Haven't had a chance to check voltage drop yet.
But new issue, I noticed diesel fuel dripping out of the engine bay this morning with my truck running,
It's on the frt of the motor, passenger side towards the top of the motor,
There is a pipe (hard line) that's pointed slightly away from the motor and pointed down to the ground but there's nothing connected to it, it's just open and it looks factory,
But it's dripping diesel at a slow but steady rate.
Truck is running normally though
If this is where it is leaking from, then the fuel bowl drain o-rings are shot. You will need to re seal the fuel bowl drain, or possibly the yellow drain lever got moved slightly. The yellow handle is in the closed position in the pic below
Thanks Robert,
That looks like it, if I was laying under the truck looking up towards the hood.
What position should the fuel drain be in? Closed I assume (as pictured).
I went out and started my truck again and it wasn't leaking now, I let it run for about 20mins and very slow drip had started.
If someone starts "pedaling" the gas pedal trying to start it, would that cause excessive diesel to build up?
My dad asked to borrow my truck and he was used to his cummins (apply some gas pedal when cranking) I looked outside and saw a big cloud of diesel in the air and asked what he was doing (I told him my ford needs NO gas pedal to start).
Have you recently changed the fuel filter? I went through your thread and didn't see any mention of it. Highly un likely that some junk got in the fuel bow, but you could try opening the yellow drain lever let some diesel drain and then re close it. It may stop it may not. I am highly suspecting the o rings need replacing. My bowl had the same symptoms. I replaced the whole drain assembly and all o rings in the bowl just because I didn't want to deal with another possible leak.
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