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Fuel Injector Replacement

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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 06:47 AM
  #31  
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I talked to Chris when I bought mine at Autonation. As for DIY, it all depends on what you are comfortable with, if oil changes are a challenge for you don't attempt it. I took the FICM, mount, and degas tank off the drivers side and the glow plug module and mount off the pass side. A 12mm flex head gear wrench comes in handy for the pass side.

Here is a good video to show you what you are in for.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 04:26 PM
  #32  
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Thank you for the video, jsm180. I have done work on vehicles such as replacing radiator, starter, and wafer puimp. These are not too complicated and don't involve a lot of steps. The video really helped me. I need to spend some time studying the steps and make sure that I have all the tools before disassemble anything.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 04:32 PM
  #33  
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When I had my leaky injector fiasco after I rebuilt my engine, I had to change 3 injectors on one side, and 2 on the other side to get rid of the Bostech's. When I did the 2 on the passenger side, I had them in a rag in the Escape and heading to town 1.5 hrs after I popped the hood. And I'm just an old fat farmer who will be turning 60 yrs old before too long. Not a huge job, but not for a frightened newbie either.
Specs call for 26 lbs/ft on my 2006, my very trusted diesel guy told me to go 28. Make sure you blow the injector tubes and bolt holes out with compressed air, and as a previous poster said, oil the o-rings up.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2015 | 05:41 PM
  #34  
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This is what I used.

SDMT440, Bit, Power, TORX®, T40, 1/4" hex, 2 3/4"

SK Hand Tool 45498 3/8-Inch Drive Bit Holder Socket, 1/4-Inch, Chrome - - Amazon.com SK Hand Tool 45498 3/8-Inch Drive Bit Holder Socket, 1/4-Inch, Chrome - - Amazon.com

I used the one on the top, not the S6340E2. It's long enough so the bit holder clears the injector body. The bit holder is magnetic so it holds the bit in.




A few tips,

Blow out the hold down bolt hole with shop air to get all the oil out.

Use a good torque wrench and torque to 28ft/lbs no more, no less.

You can prime the HPO rail by filling with oil through the small plug/bolt.

.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2015 | 12:19 PM
  #35  
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Thank you, John and Chuck. I appreciate the info. I need to study and psyche myself up for this job.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 10:27 PM
  #36  
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I would like to get you all's opinions on the "Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost" made by Power Service. I would like to try this out before trying to replace the fuel injectors. The recommendation is to double the amount added to the fuel tank initially for more cleaning action. Have you guys got any pro or con for this additive? Thank you!
 
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 11:28 PM
  #37  
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That is for the diesel fuel. The stiction issue with the injectors is on the oil side. Not going to do anything for the issue.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 11:51 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by towme
I would like to get you all's opinions on the "Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost" made by Power Service. I would like to try this out before trying to replace the fuel injectors. The recommendation is to double the amount added to the fuel tank initially for more cleaning action. Have you guys got any pro or con for this additive? Thank you!
Cold start and driveability concerns are on the oil side of the injector and not the fuel side.

You really have 4 Choices:

Switch to 5W40 and Archoil
Remove all 8 injectors, polish the spool valves, re-ring and also switch to 5W40
Replace all 8 injectors with Motorcrafts (which have new spools and improved coils)
Have a contribution test done (about $120) and only replace or polish the effected injectors




Josh
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 09:59 PM
  #39  
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Thank you, TooManyToys and Bullitt, for the feedbacks. I am realizing that changing the oil to 5W40 synthetic with Archoil 9100 will probably help. Thanks to 9228.bobcat. Also I will order the oil additive from "The Original Stiction Eliminator" Hot Shot's Secret. Many thanks to BoKnowsDiesel. This deserves a try before having to spend thousands replacing the injectors!
 
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 12:12 AM
  #40  
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I would like to get you all's advice on the 5W40 Synthetic oil:
1. Shell Rotella Full Synthetic 5W40. $19.57/gal
2. Blue Diamond from Hot Shot's Full Synthetic 5W40. $52.36/gal


I don't know why there is a big difference in price. Would the Rotella be good enough? Thank you.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 03:35 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by towme
2. Blue Diamond from Hot Shot's Full Synthetic 5W40. $52.36/gal
Does that come with gold flakes in the bottle?! Use the Rotella, it's good stuff.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 06:32 AM
  #42  
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Rotella,Delo,or Mobile 1 which ever you get the best price on........and Motorcraft Filter. All are available at Wally World.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2015 | 02:22 PM
  #43  
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Thank you, F357 and Per4mance. I will try Rotella. "Diamond" is not cheap. : )
 
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 06:23 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by towme
I would like to get you all's advice on the 5W40 Synthetic oil:
1. Shell Rotella Full Synthetic 5W40. $19.57/gal
2. Blue Diamond from Hot Shot's Full Synthetic 5W40. $52.36/gal


I don't know why there is a big difference in price. Would the Rotella be good enough? Thank you.
My '05 for the first 220k miles had only dealership performed Ford Syn/Blend oil changes and always had siction problems. About a year ago took it to Valvoline Express and installed Valvoline 5-40 full synthetic. Ten days after I was amazed that the persistant missfire that my truck had at the time went away. Go figure, at 250k miles I can't remember when my engine ran this good.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 09:49 PM
  #45  
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I am getting ready to change the engine oil using 5W40 full synthetic with Archoil 9100. I feel very positive that this would solve the stiction issue based on everyone's feedback here! I will keep you posted.
 
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