should I be nervous 1973 f100
#1
should I be nervous 1973 f100
couldnt wait, going to look at this thing tonight and probably driving home with it, 1978 Ford F100 Ranger A little scared its a 70 mile ride home. I plan on checking fluids and test driving when I purchase just curious would you be scared to drive this thing 70 miles know all belts and brakes and tires were replaced with no leaks and pending it does not overheat or make odd noises during my test drive?
Last edited by Berardini2121; 02-05-2015 at 03:15 PM. Reason: 1978 not 73
#2
#3
Nice looking truck.
If it drives OK on the test drive I wouldn't worry about the 60 miles. Should do fine and not a disaster if there is a problem. It wouldn't hurt to take a spare fuel filter though... plugged filter is easy to fix.
As you get familiar with it and take care of any issues you find, it should be very reliable. My '78 F250 sure is.
If it drives OK on the test drive I wouldn't worry about the 60 miles. Should do fine and not a disaster if there is a problem. It wouldn't hurt to take a spare fuel filter though... plugged filter is easy to fix.
As you get familiar with it and take care of any issues you find, it should be very reliable. My '78 F250 sure is.
#4
Ask the soon to be "old" owner if it has sat for a while or has been driven daily or at least driven lately?
Have a back up plan, in your buddies truck that is taking you there or at least following you back, like a tool box, fuel filter. Toss a can of Seafoam or heat in the gas tank, ck all the fluids and be careful rolling with NO insurance?
Also worse case have a local to you roll back wrecker # in you cell. Towing with a soft strap that far or half the distance would be a nightmare.
Have a back up plan, in your buddies truck that is taking you there or at least following you back, like a tool box, fuel filter. Toss a can of Seafoam or heat in the gas tank, ck all the fluids and be careful rolling with NO insurance?
Also worse case have a local to you roll back wrecker # in you cell. Towing with a soft strap that far or half the distance would be a nightmare.
#5
New truck buying excitement….First relax, do not show your enthusiasm to the seller! Act as if it is easy come, easy go. Here are some basics for checking out one of these rigs. Lots of mental notes to take! A written checklist is also OK to bring with you if needed. BE READY TO START MAKING A LIST TO DISCUSS WITH THE OWNER.
Basic Visual Inspection: TITLE TITLE TITLE 1st CHECK THE VI# ON THE PAPER TITLE, THEN AGINST THE DVRS DOOR (WARRENTY PLATE) AND THEN THE (SAFETY STANDARDS CERTIFICATION LABEL) THIS IS NOT, I SAY AGAIN NOT THE VIN PLATE! THE ACTUAL VIN IS STAMPED ON THE FRAME! AND IT IS NOT ON THE DASH EITHER.
Do a bumper to bumper visual inspection; this is also time to go on “Visual Hack Patrol” – All those so-called “repairs” made by previous owners. Look for duct tape, household wire nuts, electrical tape, wood screws, wires that go to nowhere.
Any leaks on the ground? What about the drum backing plates (wheel cylinder) or the pinion seal(s).
Look for loose, missing, or broken hardware like lugs, lug nuts, fender and bumper bolts, and bell housing to engine bolts. Feel around for soft or cracked hoses – radiator hoses degrade from the inside. Crimp it with your hand and it should have the same firmness all the way around.
How do the radius arm bushings look? Rock the truck back and forth..any squeaks??? 4x4, ck the trac bar bushings. And ck the 4x4 operation. 4Hi and 4low.
Are the tires evenly worn? Any leaf springs broken? All the glass good? Bed liner in it, lift up the end and look under it for rust. Tailgate work?
Fluid Check.
Engine oil check, is it full and relatively clean. Or does it smell musty and old?
Coolant, is there an oily sheen? Does it look like milkshake?
Check level of auto trans, power steering, and brake fluid.
Ask if there is anything on the engine that has been heli-coiled.
Note any newish parts. Any “it’s been rebuilt” stories, show me a receipt.
Pre-Operation
Check for brake pressure, pedal low? Pedal sinks to floor? Comes back up slowly? Park brake work, if it’s a standard trans, that’s a biggie. Ask the owner BEFORE you put it on. It might NOT release. Check when truck is running and in gear it it’s an auto. The brake light on the dash will NOT COME ON WHEN YOU SET THE PARK BRAKE….
Ask owner battery condition then, turn on the (key) ignition system to the 1st position (no engine start). Turn on everything - exterior and interior lights, dash lights (rheostat to the left to brighten), turn signals, hazards, heater controls, blower fan, wipers, horn, a/c radio. Does everything work? What about the gas gauge?
Turn it all off, then Start Engine. See if THE choke works.
Fire it up and let it idle and just listen to it. Ck oil pressure. Get out of the cab and get your head under the hood. Any leaks? Ticking sounds? Exhaust leaks/tail pipe blue smoke? Knocks, thumps or rattle? Hand blip the throttle and listen, ck oil pressure again after a few minutes of idle time.
Squeeze the radiator hoses... they should not be pressurized. Hard hoses may mean a blown head gasket. Now get back in and turn all that pre operation stuff again. Does it all still work?
Let the owner drive it first and ride shotgun and just look, listen (have the stereo OFF) and get a feel for the truck, see how it drives. Does the owner chase the steering wheel all over the road, does it pull or any grinding noise, when he brakes? Does the transmission shift ok? Take over on the return drive and note how it tracks, turns, accelerates, and stops. Note the temp gauge and oil pressure reading....and is the heater working (hot air)?
CAREFULLY, do a aggressive stop with your hands lightly on the wheel...does it track straight without assistance? Does it pull to one side or the other, any grinding noises? Park it and let it idle for about five minutes to check if it overheats. What does the temp gauge read?
Shut it off for 10 minutes and then restart it. Hopefully it starts right up. If not, then it can be a vapor lock, a carb that needs to be rebuilt, or defective ignition components like an ICU or coil.
Odd but… take note how clean or unkept the sellers property is or even their own vehicles. That's a sign on how detail-oriented they are. Ask every question about the truck, has it been wrecked, maint history, previous owner’s ?
Cash talks, and BS walks or at least leaves without the truck, be serious about the ALL the issues found and what you might OR WILL need to address as soon as you buy it. Mention that to the owner, he might understand or maybe not care at all. Have your 1st CASH offer in one pocket and the rest of what you are willing pay in the other. Flash the cash, in a stack of 20’s, 50’s or 100’s, that always make it harder for the owner to say no.
Have fun, but remember it’s not the only truck for sale, and try not get caught up in the moment (yea right it’s a Ford truck man!
Basic Visual Inspection: TITLE TITLE TITLE 1st CHECK THE VI# ON THE PAPER TITLE, THEN AGINST THE DVRS DOOR (WARRENTY PLATE) AND THEN THE (SAFETY STANDARDS CERTIFICATION LABEL) THIS IS NOT, I SAY AGAIN NOT THE VIN PLATE! THE ACTUAL VIN IS STAMPED ON THE FRAME! AND IT IS NOT ON THE DASH EITHER.
Do a bumper to bumper visual inspection; this is also time to go on “Visual Hack Patrol” – All those so-called “repairs” made by previous owners. Look for duct tape, household wire nuts, electrical tape, wood screws, wires that go to nowhere.
Any leaks on the ground? What about the drum backing plates (wheel cylinder) or the pinion seal(s).
Look for loose, missing, or broken hardware like lugs, lug nuts, fender and bumper bolts, and bell housing to engine bolts. Feel around for soft or cracked hoses – radiator hoses degrade from the inside. Crimp it with your hand and it should have the same firmness all the way around.
How do the radius arm bushings look? Rock the truck back and forth..any squeaks??? 4x4, ck the trac bar bushings. And ck the 4x4 operation. 4Hi and 4low.
Are the tires evenly worn? Any leaf springs broken? All the glass good? Bed liner in it, lift up the end and look under it for rust. Tailgate work?
Fluid Check.
Engine oil check, is it full and relatively clean. Or does it smell musty and old?
Coolant, is there an oily sheen? Does it look like milkshake?
Check level of auto trans, power steering, and brake fluid.
Ask if there is anything on the engine that has been heli-coiled.
Note any newish parts. Any “it’s been rebuilt” stories, show me a receipt.
Pre-Operation
Check for brake pressure, pedal low? Pedal sinks to floor? Comes back up slowly? Park brake work, if it’s a standard trans, that’s a biggie. Ask the owner BEFORE you put it on. It might NOT release. Check when truck is running and in gear it it’s an auto. The brake light on the dash will NOT COME ON WHEN YOU SET THE PARK BRAKE….
Ask owner battery condition then, turn on the (key) ignition system to the 1st position (no engine start). Turn on everything - exterior and interior lights, dash lights (rheostat to the left to brighten), turn signals, hazards, heater controls, blower fan, wipers, horn, a/c radio. Does everything work? What about the gas gauge?
Turn it all off, then Start Engine. See if THE choke works.
Fire it up and let it idle and just listen to it. Ck oil pressure. Get out of the cab and get your head under the hood. Any leaks? Ticking sounds? Exhaust leaks/tail pipe blue smoke? Knocks, thumps or rattle? Hand blip the throttle and listen, ck oil pressure again after a few minutes of idle time.
Squeeze the radiator hoses... they should not be pressurized. Hard hoses may mean a blown head gasket. Now get back in and turn all that pre operation stuff again. Does it all still work?
Let the owner drive it first and ride shotgun and just look, listen (have the stereo OFF) and get a feel for the truck, see how it drives. Does the owner chase the steering wheel all over the road, does it pull or any grinding noise, when he brakes? Does the transmission shift ok? Take over on the return drive and note how it tracks, turns, accelerates, and stops. Note the temp gauge and oil pressure reading....and is the heater working (hot air)?
CAREFULLY, do a aggressive stop with your hands lightly on the wheel...does it track straight without assistance? Does it pull to one side or the other, any grinding noises? Park it and let it idle for about five minutes to check if it overheats. What does the temp gauge read?
Shut it off for 10 minutes and then restart it. Hopefully it starts right up. If not, then it can be a vapor lock, a carb that needs to be rebuilt, or defective ignition components like an ICU or coil.
Odd but… take note how clean or unkept the sellers property is or even their own vehicles. That's a sign on how detail-oriented they are. Ask every question about the truck, has it been wrecked, maint history, previous owner’s ?
Cash talks, and BS walks or at least leaves without the truck, be serious about the ALL the issues found and what you might OR WILL need to address as soon as you buy it. Mention that to the owner, he might understand or maybe not care at all. Have your 1st CASH offer in one pocket and the rest of what you are willing pay in the other. Flash the cash, in a stack of 20’s, 50’s or 100’s, that always make it harder for the owner to say no.
Have fun, but remember it’s not the only truck for sale, and try not get caught up in the moment (yea right it’s a Ford truck man!
#6
Nice looking truck. It shouldn't have any problems on the way home, but I have learned over the years to have your ride there follow you home. It really sucks to have a breakdown in a new to you vehicle while you watch your buddy/ family member drive away because he isn't watching his mirrors.
77&79F250 gives a very concise list of what to look for in a used truck, except these trucks had an automatic choke, not electric.
Robert
77&79F250 gives a very concise list of what to look for in a used truck, except these trucks had an automatic choke, not electric.
Robert
#7
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#8
Its a Ford. If it misses on 4 cylinders, slips shifting between gears, backfires when you give it some gas, takes 4 and 1/2 blocks to stop running 35, acts like it is running hot within 2 minutes of starting it up, it will still outrun,outpull,outcool any chevy on the road and make it home in time for supper.
#9
#10
If it performs ok on the test drive I'd be pretty confident. It looks like a legit decent truck, it's not a $700 beater. I've bought some "somewhat sketchy" rides in the past & made it more than 60 miles for sure. Maybe be just little rough on test, hard braking, tight steering...if you get enough seat time you'll probly get a gut feeling. Another ride & driver is always great if available. AAA?
#11
Berardini2121,
Congrats on the truck - it looks great and is at least advertised as well taken care of.
I'm with Gatorfor 88 on this one. I drove my 79 F100 47 miles home and it was in way worse shape. I got it home and laughed at how it took 30 seconds to stop running.
Check the oil, look for leaks/wet spots under the motor, transmission and rear differential. Make sure the upper and lower radiator hoses are good. Check the water, the brake fluid and the PS fluid. If they check out you are good to go.
A basic tool kit, inline fuel filter, gallon of water and a tow strap. These items with an escort vehicle will ensure you make it home.
Have fun - after all it's a Ford truck.
Scott
Congrats on the truck - it looks great and is at least advertised as well taken care of.
I'm with Gatorfor 88 on this one. I drove my 79 F100 47 miles home and it was in way worse shape. I got it home and laughed at how it took 30 seconds to stop running.
Check the oil, look for leaks/wet spots under the motor, transmission and rear differential. Make sure the upper and lower radiator hoses are good. Check the water, the brake fluid and the PS fluid. If they check out you are good to go.
A basic tool kit, inline fuel filter, gallon of water and a tow strap. These items with an escort vehicle will ensure you make it home.
Have fun - after all it's a Ford truck.
Scott
#12
It is still a very good write up of how to look at a used vehicle. I did basically the same thing almost twenty years ago when I went to look at my '77. The original owner had it advertised for $3000.00 with receipts of spending $2700 rebuilding the engine two years before. The only thing I could find bad was one front hub didn't lock, and he had a wooden console that did not let the shifter go into 4Low and the heater core leaked.
I was honest and told him it was a better truck than I was looking for, (I wanted something to work on while in homeport, to keep me out of bars). He asked what I had wanted to spend, I told him "About 2."
He thought it over for about five minutes, and I about filled my shorts when he said, "You got it."
It has been a good truck, I drove it for about fifteen years, then one of the heads cracked. New engine and it is still a good truck.
Robert
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