How to know your low pressure pump works...


Sounds like you installed the new pump correctly.
Good chance you have an issue with the fuel lines somewhere.
so i did the bucket thing no suction at all...i then decided to check the line from the tank to the lift pump its mostly steel covered in oil but i see no holes or anything seemed to be all good so i popped off the line where it connects to the lift pump and blew in it. I heard bubbles coming from the bucket... so im like "i cant believe have to remove this damn lift pump again...
" so i did just that and the pump seems to be in working order i pushed the lever nice and firm and i can hear the diafragm (sp?) pumping and the top of the lever had a nice line where the cam was rubbing it so im totally lost.... id rather keep this thing stock but all signs keep pointing to low pressure electric pump... dont know what else to do
1. Pull the intake side off the low pressure pump(that's the side with the rubber hose).
2. Put a 3' piece of 3/8 rubber hose(cheap enough at your local auto parts store) on there, into a bucket of diesel. This eliminates any leaks, any chance of issues.
3. On the filter head, remove the schraeder valve core -- it's just like a tire valve stem.
4. Crank, see if air comes out that port.
If you do not see air coming out, you've got a problem. If you do, the low pressure pump is working.
Remember that the low pressure pump can't /push/ air very well. And there's only a tiny bypass from the filter head to the return system; if it's full of air, it won't be able to push well. Open up the restriction by removing that core, and it should be able to pull/push well enough.
Once you get fuel coming out the schraeder valve, put the core back in. Now, make sure that you have power to *both* of the lines on the top of the IP with the key on, and that you get a clicking noise when you remove/reattach the connector on both of the lines.
If you don't, for this test create a piece of jumper wire and run it from Battery + to both of those terminals.
Now, you have a chance of bleeding things. You will need to make sure that the throttle lever/accelerator on the IP is floored when bleeding. YOU CANNOT BLEED WITH THE THROTTLE AT IDLE.
I would now remove the rubber return line from the top of the IP, and crank until you see fuel there. THIS WILL NOT WORK UNLESS BOTH TERMINALS HAVE POWER.
You can now try bleeding the injectors. Hook the return line back up to the IP, and crack all 8 injector lines at the injector. Crank with the throttle FLOORED until you see fuel squirting out around each injector nut, then tighten them down. You can now try starting the engine.
Beerme7.3, sounds like you might have a problem in the tank if you can get the pump to work from a bucket. If you hook the hose back up to the tank, can you hear bubbles going into the tank? I had an issue with the pickup rusting out on the back tank of one of my trucks. First I thought it was the tank leaking, but when I dropped the tank noticed how rusty the lines on the sender were.
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Last edited by tjc transport; Feb 3, 2015 at 05:11 AM. Reason: fix a spelling typo
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts


What pump did you use??
Blue is new
Relay inline fuse...
Pump





