I'd get working on a chemical flush and prepare for a new OEM oil cooler.

 

Yep you have a Oil Cooler plugging Be carful not to burst the EGR cooler when driving 225 is getting into the danger zone, you have 2 things to work on fuel pressure and Oil Cooler. I forgot what you said about the HFCM was it all gunked up? and do you hear it purging when koeo( key on engine off ) first cold start? Blue spring kit from Riff raff diesel products are cheep and real easy to Install .

 

I don't have an EGR cooler to burst lol. Im still worried about it getting hot enough to make the oil cooler fail.

The HFCM didn't appear too bad but the color of the diesel had me wondering.

And a blue spring is on my To-Do list lol

My moms driving the X for a few days (fingers crossed) so ill prolly do some poking around on the fuel pressure to see where im at

 

Be sure you have Ford oil filter AND oil filter cap. With the 6L you can have a crank no start from 3 or 4 causes: no camshaft/crankshaft sync,high pressure oil problems either cold or hot no start, ficm low voltage, and fuel pressure.
Only fuel pressure can't be read via odb2 guage, they really really needed otherwise we are just taking educated guesses.

 

Is it just me, maybe- but I would not let (most) any woman drive a 6.0 with a plugged oil cooler....
IMO, they have a hard enough time watching the road, let alone Stock Gauges- not to mention Extra Gauges.....

but really- it seems you are rolling the dice everytime you drive this vehicle. Get your scanner set up to read that asked for values. post them(phone based scanners are awesome, a screenshot will save tons of time, and show all the info in one shot-less questions left to be asked) get a fuel pressure test done.

 

What's the chances of my oil temp sensor being wrong? I took a heat gun (can't think of proper term) and took some readings of stuff after it had say for about 15 minutes. My gauge said 180* and the turbo itself was only 175*. Surely the turbo doesn't cool off that fast and you know it get way hotter than the oil. Even the oil pan was around 140*

 

It's possible. You can swap the EOT and ECT sensors to test.

 

If there within a couple degrees of each other (EOT/ECT) after an overnight cold soak they're probably ok.

 

My oil cooler must have been having a bad day the other day. Ever since, my oil and coolant have been running within 10* of each other. Maybe its the cold weather?


Anyways, Iv still been poking around on getting an oil cooler since its gonna need one sometime regardless. Is there any other oil coolers that are acceptable other than OEM and Bullet Proof?


I don't have $1500+ laying around to put towards the Bullet Proof cooler so the plan was to get a "middle of the road" cooler to get me by until I can get a Bullet Proof cooler. But from reading around the only two options are either OEM or Bullet Proof. Surely I can save up $1500 in the 50,000 miles itd take the cooler to plug up

 

Been doing some poking around on the 6.0. Fuel pressure is well over the safe mark at idle, FICM checks out, ICP values are good. I hooked up another scan tool and it doesn't allow me to check IPR values either, so gonna assume theyre ok

Running out of options. I thought for sure itd be the FICM

 

Ok guys, been awhile since Iv updated this thread, and for good reason! My Excursion has been running flawlessly for several weeks now. I decided to bite the bullet and installed a new HFCM (since it was the same price as a fuel pump). Vua la, the thing runs like a top.


Anyways, I decided its running so good, its time for a road trip. 4.5 hours and about 225 miles one way. Of course, it ran like a dream, and even got 21 mpg! I watched my oil temp and it hovered around 218*. That's warm, but not outrageous since I don't have an EGR.


On the way home, the ambient temperature was about 20* warmer. Kept an eye on the oil temp and I started getting a little ansey when it hit 225*. My coolant didn't budge an inch at 186*. That's 40* difference.


Now my question here is: I know 40* difference is too much, EGR or not. But the "simple" solution would be install a Mishimoto 200* thermostat. Then itd only be a 25* difference. Would this be a true fix or am I just trying to put a bandaid on something that will eventually lead to amputation (engine removal)?

 

Did you have a load or Empty? I would say Oil cooler running at that temp is close to defueling and bad fuel mileage anyway, save your money and go the New OEM cooler from BPD , Actually Ed might get ya a better deal ficm repair.com