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The p1000 you had earlier is a good clue. If you didn't have both the batteries disconnected at some point, the ECM did a reset. Bad battery(s) or connection, alternator, or engine wiring harness issues could be the cause.
Program your scan gauge for IPR% injector pressure regulator. And to get that plug on the frame fuel filter housing out, gently tap in a torx bit a size bigger into the 6mm allen plug and just be careful breaking it loose with a wrench. it will work if youre careful. I had to do. Then of course replace it with the new oem brass (not easily strippable) one.
Got the old plug out with an Easy Out. Caught the diesel in a cup and checked it out. It was more yellow than it was green. Idk if it's that diluted or the diesel 911. I'm gonna let it settle and see if the water separates out. So it's running for now!
And I don't have a scan gauge. I have one of those that connects with your phone
Got the old plug out with an Easy Out. Caught the diesel in a cup and checked it out. It was more yellow than it was green. Idk if it's that diluted or the diesel 911. I'm gonna let it settle and see if the water separates out. So it's running for now!
And I don't have a scan gauge. I have one of those that connects with your phone
Cool now when ya gonna bring my 96 back. I have one the exact same color only mine is a F150.
Not quite. Every time it'd die, if I cranked on it for awhile, itd fire and run. If I let it sit for a bit, it'd run good. So basically now, if it doesn't die on me again in a few days, then the verdict is water in the fuel
Uh oh. Got another problem arising. I was cruising down the highway and it started cutting out slightly. So I pulled out my phone and checked my codes. The only thing it pulled up was the fuel level sensor circuit A. I figured while it was out, I had might as well check out my EOT vs ECT. At the time I pulled it up, it was 25*. My heart started pumping. I looked again a little later and it was still 20* difference. Should I be worried?
Uh oh. Got another problem arising. I was cruising down the highway and it started cutting out slightly. So I pulled out my phone and checked my codes. The only thing it pulled up was the fuel level sensor circuit A. I figured while it was out, I had might as well check out my EOT vs ECT. At the time I pulled it up, it was 25*. My heart started pumping. I looked again a little later and it was still 20* difference. Should I be worried?
25 deg spread Hmmm Oil cooler plugging, check gauges eot and ect on cold start make sure the sensor's is on cue , the ECT should come down faster than EOT when parked for a while How long did you wait to see 20 deg?
Exacta mondo!!! Need to listen to this guy,,, he's a sharp feller!!! Lol
With all the issues,, better be spending $$$ on a fuel pressure setup. I've had many customers with a story close to yours,,, And they ended up running too much water through the injectors,, and cracked a tip,, and bought the farm (or an engine).
A bad injector will ruin a motor? And I'm waiting on it to quit again. I figure it's a matter of time. Then I'm going to start looking at fuel system issues.
My ingenious father in law (literally, he's a mechanical genius) says it's gotta be a fuel problem somewhere. He also doubt water in the fuel would cause this much problems. He thinks it may be a fuel pump or something along those lines. I'm gonna have him hook up his fuel pressure gauge and see where it's at. What should it be at? Some ridiculous amount like 20,000 psi?
And I checked it out as soon as I left the parking lot yesterday and had my gf watch the gauges. It stayed at between 18-22* different the whole time the engine was warming up, with the coolant being the warmer of the two. I'll have to keep a sharp watch on it next time I drive it and watch it from the time i leave til it cools off
At idle, ideally you should see no less than 55 psi. Test port is on fuel pressure regulator under hood where upper fuel filter is located. The test port plug takes a 6 mm allen wrench to remove.
ICP and IPR values!! Your Injector Pressure Regulator valve fires your injectors! and icp sensor monitors it. You need to make sure your injectors are getting the required oil pressure to fire..
Alright boys. I watched my scan tool the entire time I drove home today. 15 miles, prolly 75% highway. Both the coolant and oil temp were 55* (its been nice for February!). Fired er up and started home. It wasn't but a few miles down the road and my coolant was 30* hotter than my oil. And it stayed like that the majority of the way home. Both values climbed, but stayed around 30* apart. Once my coolant hit around 150*, the oil finally started catching up. Then my coolant topped out at 186* and my oil caught up, then started getting hotter than my coolant! By the time I got home, my oil had finally slowed down and was 213*, with my coolant still at 186*.
I sat in it with the engine off for around 5 minutes til I got bored and my oil cooled off to 200* while my coolant remained at 186*.
I did notice if I let it idle, my oil would start to cool off but soon as I take off, my oil temp starts going back up again. Idk when my oil temp would stop climbing, as it still didn't stop at 213*, although it was much slower than initially. But my scan tool also says what the average was. My coolant averaged 164* and my oil averaged 163*
And I still have my ICP psi pulled up and its max was 2291 psi and averaged roughly 1100 psi. Ill have to see if my scan tool reads IPR