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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 02:26 PM
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El Camino Man's Avatar
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Another No Start Thread

Hey guys. Iv owned my 6.0L powered X for a total of 6 days now. My knowledge of the 6.0L is limited... for now. The trucks ran like a top for the first 4 days. No issues whatsoever. Great power. Even pulled 2 loaded trailers in that time. Then I fired it up one day to go to work and took off. I pulled out onto the main road and tried getting up to speed. I had trouble getting passed 25 mph. But after limping around, it finally woke up and got up to speed.

Then I got off work that afternoon. Jumped in the X, fired right up, and took off down the road. Once again, I had trouble getting passed 20 mph, even at WOT. I figured it wasn't warmed up yet and needed to get some heat in it, so I pulled off on a side road and let it idle for a bit. It idled pretty rough and kept getting rougher. I decided to try to limp it the 4 blocks to my grandparents' house. Pulled up to the next stop sign and it finally quit. It turned over good and would "chug" one every couple seconds like it was trying to start. I gave up and pushed it to the side of the road and hauled it home with my 7.3.

Today, I put in new fuel filters and it fired right up. Opened the garage door, jumped in it to back it out and it slowly went from running excellent, to rough, to barely running and it finally quit before I could even get backed out of the garage. Then it did the ol chug every couple seconds and wouldn't fire.

All I know about it is it had new injectors put in a year ago, EGRs deleted, and it has a water in fuel light on. I pulled it in the garage and plugged it in thinking the fuel was froze up but no luck. Also, no CEL on.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 02:45 PM
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Sounds like a bad icp sensor right off the bat. the tech folder on this page has a lot about a no start situation. Go through that and rule some things out. We need some voltage and pressure readings to know anything for sure.
It had new injectors put in for a reason. Water in fuel light.. Drain the water from the plug. Ever see smoke from exhaust? Check FICM volts. Scan for codes. Theres probly a code
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 02:46 PM
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From: Frederick MD
Do you have any gauges on it yet. (Scan gauge, edge CTS or a droid or iPhone app) would be a plus to look for codes and read some voltage numbers



Posted to late.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 03:20 PM
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No code reader as of yet. I was in the market for one before the Excursion quit. Now the $100 I was gonna spend on a ScanGauge has been blown on fuel filters and a new fuel filter housing. Jokes on me, it didn't help

My first thought was ICP but don't they usually throw a CEL?

And also, does the Smartphone App work as good as a ScanGauge? I have a spare iPhone laying around I could repurpose
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 03:25 PM
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You'll save thousands by getting the scangauge--you really can't properly diagnose without knowing the pids
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 04:14 PM
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From: Frederick MD
Yeah your sorda lost with out being able to read stuff. Without taking it to a shop, even after you download an app you still need to buy a wireless obdII plug prob going to be another 30 bucks for that.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 04:15 PM
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I was thinking about ordering an ICP, but instead of throwing $110 at what I think is wrong, maybe Id be better off throwing $25 at a Scan Tool
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 04:20 PM
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From: Frederick MD
Before you buy anything I would look at what you want to buy i think most off the shelf scan tools. Are just going to give you a code reader, you Gona want a scangauge or something just like it.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 04:35 PM
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I would lean towards the torque pro/dash boss route. Firstly they are a cheaper option, and secondly they seem more capable at reading codes vs the scangauge which don't get me wrong is a great monitor however a lousy code reader.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by El Camino Man
I was thinking about ordering an ICP, but instead of throwing $110 at what I think is wrong, maybe Id be better off throwing $25 at a Scan Tool
Get the scan tool first

Hindsight is always 20/20....with that said, you should have bought a scan tool before you did the test drive. It sounds like a problem was looming before you traded trucks. Was the trade with a known friend?
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 05:31 PM
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Check battery voltage and alternator ouput. If you have a multimeter.. If not.. try disconnecting the icp sensor and see if it fires up
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Money-Pit
Get the scan tool first Hindsight is always 20/20....with that said, you should have bought a scan tool before you did the test drive. It sounds like a problem was looming before you traded trucks. Was the trade with a known friend?
I didn't have time or cash to buy a scan tool at the time. And he's not a friend.

Before I get to pulling the turbo off to unplug the ICP, I'm going to wait for my scan tool to get here. I next day air Saturday'd it so it'll be here Saturday. Either way it was money well spent. I needed it regardless
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 07:39 PM
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How cold is it where youre at?
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 07:49 PM
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All you have to do is reach back behind the right side of the turbo and find the wire and clip that goes to the sensor and unclip it with one hand. Takes ten seconds. You can check FICM voltage with a multimeter too to make sure its getting required power.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 08:50 PM
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Some guys say they go from the Bottom, some say from the top to get the ICP , stick a Mirror in there and make sure it's the ICP and not the IPR I would pull Both the IPR might have the screen blown out. X I forgot the count on the Gauges to much work for pulling the turbo just to get the sensor
 
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