Its the little things
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 104
Its the little things
It seems like im chasing gremlins all the time.
The truck will not come up to temp. Maybe that's why it doesn't have any power. Its either a stuck or no thermostat. Either way, I have to drain the coolant.
The heater doesn't work, I noticed it doesn't have a fuse.
The temp **** on the deluxe heater will not pull out.
The column shifter keeps slipping out of park.
Its still a blast to own, its just a lot of effort.
The truck will not come up to temp. Maybe that's why it doesn't have any power. Its either a stuck or no thermostat. Either way, I have to drain the coolant.
The heater doesn't work, I noticed it doesn't have a fuse.
The temp **** on the deluxe heater will not pull out.
The column shifter keeps slipping out of park.
Its still a blast to own, its just a lot of effort.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Are you sure it's not the temp gauge itself?
They aren't known for being particularly helpful. Have resisted replacing the sending unit because I'm 99 and 44/100ths per cent sure it wouldn't make a damn bit of difference. It moves to about 160 on the gauge, almost, but the actual engine temp is fine. It warms up reasonably fast, and when fully warmed up the heater is outstanding, it will run you out.
If the engine isn't in fact, reaching normal operating temperature, then it will rapidly sludge up. Not Good. Drain the radiator into a clean container, it will empty the upper radiator hose as well, enough to remove the thermostat housing anyway. Then reinstall the coolant. Maybe a 15 minute deal. Removing a thermostat is not a good idea, except to get home, maybe.
They aren't known for being particularly helpful. Have resisted replacing the sending unit because I'm 99 and 44/100ths per cent sure it wouldn't make a damn bit of difference. It moves to about 160 on the gauge, almost, but the actual engine temp is fine. It warms up reasonably fast, and when fully warmed up the heater is outstanding, it will run you out.
If the engine isn't in fact, reaching normal operating temperature, then it will rapidly sludge up. Not Good. Drain the radiator into a clean container, it will empty the upper radiator hose as well, enough to remove the thermostat housing anyway. Then reinstall the coolant. Maybe a 15 minute deal. Removing a thermostat is not a good idea, except to get home, maybe.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Upper hose doesn't build pressure? Radiator should get hot, etc. (duh). Yeah without accurate gauge indications it is a guessing game. After several years I've learned to judge well enough. I would replace thermostat for sure. It's important for any engine to warm up quick, to the right temp.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,119
Likes: 117
From: Chico, Ca.
I would flush the entire system. The heater valve being stuck is a good indication that the system is plugged up. I would pull the thermostat before flushing. Use distilled water when refilling. Good luck.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 104
The heater valve is new. I need to go through the entire cooling and heating system.
Its on my roundtoit list.
Its on my roundtoit list.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 185
Likes: 3
Thermostat is stuck open or missing. Just put a new thermostat in it. Sounds like you have a huge radiator. Id run a 195 t-stat in something like that. Even without a t-stat it should get up to 140-150 when driving. An engine running that cold will create far more wear than an engine running hot. Id get that fixed right away. Also don't do anything to the heater until you fix the cold temps, obviously the heater won't create any heat if coolant temp is barely warm.
Andrew
Andrew
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 58
Get an infrared or laser thermometer and check the temperature at the thermostat housing. One thing to keep in mind is the position of the temp sensor; coolant still has to travel over 4 combustion chambers, so the temp indicated by the sender will be 10-15 degrees cooler than the temp at the thermostat housing which can make you think it is running cooler than it should, if the gauge indicates correctly.
You shouldn't have to drain much coolant to get to the thermostat, only a couple quarts, if that and it's easy to check the thermostat in a pot of water on the stove or with a heat gun and thermometer.
A 180 degree thermostat should be fine when everything is working properly. That's what I run with much more power than stock. The temp does climb in summer traffic but it has never overheated.
You shouldn't have to drain much coolant to get to the thermostat, only a couple quarts, if that and it's easy to check the thermostat in a pot of water on the stove or with a heat gun and thermometer.
A 180 degree thermostat should be fine when everything is working properly. That's what I run with much more power than stock. The temp does climb in summer traffic but it has never overheated.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
I've never tried the suspend in pot of boiling water test, if I go to all the trouble of pulling a stat might as well just replace it. Given the quality of replacement parts these days though, it sounds like a good idea to start doing that with the replacement stat.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 58
The pot of water trick serves as a way to determine if there is a problem with the thermostat or not - it's always good to check even a brand new one. Without that verification, it's just a guess, some guesses more educated than others, that the thermostat is or is not the problem.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 104
Im still learning much about this truck after 9-ish months of ownership.
The radiator is not for this truck. Its to narrow and the PO made brackets so it would bolt up to the core support.
My upper outlet is right in the middle of the radiator. I think I found a molded hose that will work. Goodyear 60859
The lower outlet is on the left side, where I think it belongs. Im going to try a Dayco 70423 there.
I will go with a 180 thermostat and see how that works.
The radiator is not for this truck. Its to narrow and the PO made brackets so it would bolt up to the core support.
My upper outlet is right in the middle of the radiator. I think I found a molded hose that will work. Goodyear 60859
The lower outlet is on the left side, where I think it belongs. Im going to try a Dayco 70423 there.
I will go with a 180 thermostat and see how that works.
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