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Okay gang the original steel line on the 64, running from pump to carb is long gone or most of it. The Holley inlet is on the opposite side anyway so it wouldn't really fit. Not quite ready to bend tubing and flare just yet? Also installed a pump that has a filter inside, so now can get rid of inline.filter. There's a filter at the carb inlet too. Can get rid of half a dozen hose clamps this way and potential leaks.
A gazillion places sell these 3' stainless braided hose kits with aluminum fittings, though from the photos none of them look like they have standard flared 1/2" fittings for mechanical fuel pump and carb. What am I missing? Some more fittings probably? What's the deal or, who makes a plug and play kit with flared fuel fittings don't want to make a career out of this project. Thanks.
Could you buy a prebent hardline from a Mustang supplier and get it close to the inlet, then go with a rubber hose from there?
That's what I'm thinking. It's a good plan to have at least a short length of rubber tubing to provide vibration relief from what I'm reading, versus a solid line. It's a pita to order stuff online when not sure exactly what's needed and the local parts jobber either don't have it or only junky imposter stuff. Fuel line isn't something to cheap out on. Braided steel hose from pump to carb would work, though.
Talked to NAPA and they sell chunks of hard line. Think I will pick up some that and a tube bender? Just like the idea of no hose clamps, or rubber line to deteriorate, especially with crossover exhaust.
On the passenger side, so it has to have more than a couple bends. Yeah, I had a mess of old hard line, and worn out fittings, hose clamps, rubber hose filter, more hard line and rubber, etc. Nice new single line and fittings makes things mo better.
Went with the braided steel flex line many years ago and found it works great, just a matter of detaching at the carb and shift when working on carb and/or engine. They come precut with end pieces attached, or 'do it yourself' kits. Use caution if decide to go this route using the kit, couple different types, one requires special tools, the kit I used did not and the person behind the counter did not know the difference, then it's just a matter of selecting the correct size, shape, and type AN fittings; 6,8, 10 AN, and thread count and shape. If the Carb inlet is on the opposite side may want to consider some type of crossover at the carb???
Do I get a do over? LOL I need to get a tighter bend on the first one out of the fuel pump than the tube bender is capable of. They sell pre-flared lengths and this one is perfect tho no room for error.
That would work, though think I can make a tighter bend OK by using a socket or something like that. Going to have to hang my head in shame and buy more fuel line.
That would work, though think I can make a tighter bend OK by using a socket or something like that. Going to have to hang my head in shame and buy more fuel line.
I wouldn't worry about a tighter radius, what you have will work fine. If that piece of premade tubing is the same as most auto parts stores sell it is cheap thin wall crap and will just collapse if you try to go too small. Ask me how I know LOL. The one on my 292 looks just about like yours..
Understand one can use a spring slightly larger dia. than the fuel line is less likely to kink. If going this route suggest flare the end near the pump and install the fitting first before bending then after making the bend install the fitting and flare the end at the carb.
What am I missing? I think that looks fine. If you try to go much tighter, it will just collapse with the wrong tool, i.e. a socket. The average 90 degree nipple or elbow will just make a tighter bend which is not ideal.
Had to use a short length of hose to make that one work. My tube bending skills need practice. The Holley has the fuel inlet on the pax side so it needs a pretty sharp bend at on both ends to make it work. This will work for now. Not so much a tighter bend but closer to the outlet on the pump. Running better than ever!
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