EBPV sound when closing
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,508
Likes: 87
From: North Carolina, Raleigh
that reminded me a guy i get info from works at a local ford dealership.
I removed the EBP sensor and it looked clean. There was a bit of soot and i took a qtip and sprayed some brake cleaner in and swabed it..
Put it back on started and let it run a bit and same thing.. EBPV would close and after 10 sec start the pulsing thing.. got the new sensor in mail and did not remember till i had it all put back together. have to replace when i do more work on it in spring.
I removed the EBP sensor and it looked clean. There was a bit of soot and i took a qtip and sprayed some brake cleaner in and swabed it..
Put it back on started and let it run a bit and same thing.. EBPV would close and after 10 sec start the pulsing thing.. got the new sensor in mail and did not remember till i had it all put back together. have to replace when i do more work on it in spring.
Butt-Head
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,459
Likes: 2,941
From: Reed Point, MT
As much as I hate interjecting with "this might be your problem" types of replies, I can induce this behavior with the backpressure valve at work using jumper cables from my service truck.
When it's cold enough for the backpressure valve to close at high idle and I have a dead/weak piece of equipment that I'm "jumping", any extra load on the charging system will cause the valve to open. Typically, it will be closed until I hit the key (or button) on the machinery and then it will open until I release the key at which point it closes again. Is there a possibility of excessive current draw on your vehicle or a weak alternator or batteries (or related cable problems)?
As far as the tuning end of it is concerned, it's easy to cause this type of behavior when the load calculation and RPM "cross paths" so-to-speak wherein the enabling criteria for the backpressure valve to close is on that ragged edge of one or the other. For example, if the RPM comes up slowly and it hits the point where the backpressure valve will close but the additional load causes the engine speed to dip just enough to fall out of the enabling window, it will open again. The RPM increases slightly and back into closing mode we go and so the cycle repeats until a happy medium is reached where it closes and stays closed.
When it's cold enough for the backpressure valve to close at high idle and I have a dead/weak piece of equipment that I'm "jumping", any extra load on the charging system will cause the valve to open. Typically, it will be closed until I hit the key (or button) on the machinery and then it will open until I release the key at which point it closes again. Is there a possibility of excessive current draw on your vehicle or a weak alternator or batteries (or related cable problems)?
As far as the tuning end of it is concerned, it's easy to cause this type of behavior when the load calculation and RPM "cross paths" so-to-speak wherein the enabling criteria for the backpressure valve to close is on that ragged edge of one or the other. For example, if the RPM comes up slowly and it hits the point where the backpressure valve will close but the additional load causes the engine speed to dip just enough to fall out of the enabling window, it will open again. The RPM increases slightly and back into closing mode we go and so the cycle repeats until a happy medium is reached where it closes and stays closed.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 10
I may have miss led you in an earlier post. Yesterday, it was 20*F here in GA I ain't seen that in about 8 years! Anyway, I always start and allow the engine to run for about 10 minutes prior to getting into and driving it. What I noticed, mine does the same thing as the above video of concern.
So, I started it today 40*F and observed its strategy, it never did it nor did it high-idle. So, I assume I was incorrect that Ford removed that with a Flash. Possibly changed the temperature at which it activates? My sensor, tube and EBPV are less than 2 years old with the latest strategy flsh.
I will look into this tomorrow. Sorry.
So, I started it today 40*F and observed its strategy, it never did it nor did it high-idle. So, I assume I was incorrect that Ford removed that with a Flash. Possibly changed the temperature at which it activates? My sensor, tube and EBPV are less than 2 years old with the latest strategy flsh.
I will look into this tomorrow. Sorry.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,508
Likes: 87
From: North Carolina, Raleigh
yeah that what it does but not as fast. I wonder if hooking up a switch on the EBP wire and feeding some voltage might be a good thing. of course a diode in as well.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 10
No, the PCM controls the EBPV. I would do as the above has suggested and clean the EBPV Tube
and "possibly" replace the EBPV Sending Unit.
Some have stated there may be carbon build up on the actuator valve in the Turbo Pedestal. I have yet to see one which does not have some soot or build up. And, if that is the case, removal and cleaning would be in order.
A lot of people delete or disable these. However, I do not advocate doing so. The design was purposeful. I stray away from changing or modifying engineered systems without a ton of research from dependable and reliable sources. That's just me
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
I have your back on this one, bud.
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