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I have a 97 F-250 Heavy Duty 7.5L 460 5 spd reg. cab. It started cranking slow after its warm. (Like timing is off) It will start fine after it sits 20 to 30 min. I have new battery. Tried starter first. Set timing, then changed dissy. No improvement. I've just changed ignition module. Slight improvement on starting when warm, but it still rolls over slow, (not as slow) and sometimes don't start. I'm baffled and reaching out for help! Thanks in advance!
Cranking problems can often times be attributed to bad cables , positive corrode from I.side out turning cable pink.
Ground cables more difficult to notice, but swelling is an obvious sign.
Cranking problems can often times be attributed to bad cables , positive corrode from I.side out turning cable pink.
Ground cables more difficult to notice, but swelling is an obvious sign.
Yup, this would be my guess.
Corroded inside so you can't see it. And it doesn't take much corrosion to greatly reduce the amperage flow through the cables.
Yes, it is. I failed to mention it's new too. I also didn't tell that I have a Smart Start interlock device. I don't think it's letting all my power thru to the starter. Now leaving work yesterday, it won't start at all. Starter just clicks.
I'm sending this one down to the '87-'96 F-series forum. It's kind of confusing, but that covers the F250 and F350 for '97 as well. You may get some more help down there.
Slow crank when warm can also be a sign of a failing starter, just to throw that out there. The electric motor would work fine when cold but when warm it expands internally just enough to drag instead of crank as hard.
trusty rush will sometimes not crank, I jump out and wiggle the cables (loose cable not terminal) was and still sì the problem, also I'm doing research on a solenoid to help more amps go to the starter instead of being lost which if I understand the math correctly will help the motor turn over faster= start faster
Timing, codes and distributor have NOTHING to do with how fast it cranks. That is only affected by the drag the engine has and the power available from the starter. Engine drag is usually lower with a warm engine, so I'd look at the starter power. That's affected by a bunch of things that have been suggested: battery, alternator, cables, corroded connections, starter solenoid and starter. If slow cranking is the issue deal with those items first.
Timing, codes, distributor etc. will obviously affect how quickly the engine will start. But you can completely remove the ignition system and it will still crank over.
I'm doing research on a solenoid to help more amps go to the starter instead of being lost which if I understand the math correctly will help the motor turn over faster= start faster
Which solenoid are you talking about, the fender mounted solenoid or the solenoid on top of the starter? All the fender mounted solenoid does is relay the signal to engage the starter. You can however bypass the fender mounted solenoid and the clutch safety switch as well as the ignition switch by hooking a remote starter switch directly on the solenoid on top of the starter. This for testing purposes only of course.
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