cigarette lighter splitters

Cigarette lighter 101: There are 10 amps available, and that's it. Upping the fuse does not add to the amperage availability, it releases the smoke contained within your wiring and the connector. If you need more than those 10 amps in the cab, a separate power run will need to be made - just make sure you include a 10 amp fuse. Oh... and that cigarette lighter connector is good for about 10 amps max. If you need more power, you need a different connector.
If you blow the cigarette lighter fuse, there goes the OBDII power - so don't freak out when the Android dims and Torque just gives you that blank stare.
Now the tricky part - math. I hope you had your coffee. If you've ever looked at vacuum cleaner ads, they brag about amps. Uh... it's an air vacuum, not an energy vacuum. So it uses 13 amps, what do I get out of the deal? How about a vacuum measurement in inches of water, mercury, or whatever? SCFM? No? I get amps. Amps are a great rating on these power adapters, but watch out for those guys - they might switch the numbers around and you won't know if it's amps to the converter or from the converter. Watts. That's the number you're looking for. Here comes the math I warned you about: Watts equal Volts times Amps. I linked the device above because it is one of the higher-watt units.
Going back to the Cigarette lighter class, we now know you have 120 watts max available. That's actually a lot of power with today's technology. The unit above provides 45 watts to the USB ports, that leaves about 75 watts (6 amps) for whatever device needs the conventional cigarette lighter plug. 45 Watts to a 5 volt USB power strip means they split up 9 amps. Did you miss what just happened? I said the 10-amp cigarette lighter plug is providing 6 amps to your cigarette lighter device, and 9 amps to your USB devices - that's 15 amps from a 10-amp outlet. Nope. That's 120 watts from a 120-watt outlet. When you surf for your power device, multiply amps times volts and work with the watts to get a single number to compare everything with.
If you really want to add a USB power strip similar to this, but not use a lighter outlet for it, you might find one that can be mounted. If I were in the market for such a thing, I doubt I'd be looking at the dash - there's enough crap there. I'd like one at the base of the middle front seat, mounted in back. Cords are cheap, and you can just leave what you need plugged in through the "butt crack" of the seat to the power strip. When you jump in the cab, the cords are laying in wait.
For those looking for the "Superduty" of USB hubs, with the capability to link to one central device - you can hardwire one of these bad boys with 350-watt surge protection (does not fast-charge and might not meet Samsung/HTC power requirements):











