Here's my second concept sketch Dmack used for the "inspiration" for his mount, made from 2x2 heavy weight (1/4" or better) angle iron. It does not use any of the existing frame holes except the large pitman shaft one.

 

Thank you Ax and Bobby. You guys have provided so much help on this project I am a bit at a loss to know how to thank you for your time and interest.
I will post pictures of the steering project when done and if I can figure out how to post a picture that is smaller than a Costco vegetable box I intend to post the project from start to finish with info on the specifics of each step.

 

I take cash, checks, or paypal! ONLY KIDDING! Your camera probably came with a basic editing program or there are several free ones available for download you can use to resize/crop/resample your pictures down to a realistic file and picture size. Let me know if you need help with the pix.

 

1. If you are asking about the end flats, yes they are necessary. The pic was taken before I drilled the holes in the ends to secure them to the top and bottom flanges.
2. I bought a new nut form Classic Haulers, but it didn't fit right so I reused my old one.
3. The finished angle of the box is not what the pic shows, that was just holding in place. I just eyeballed the steering column angle and got as close as I could. I used the factory Toyota double u-joint to match them up.
4. I still have mine in a corner, but I understand some companies buy them back as AX said.


I only originally drilled 3 holes in the main frame mounting part, but found it hit a mount that had to have the rivets drilled out, which is the reason for 5 holes now (I think it was the forward cab mount).


Here is a pic of the angle I mounted it at:

 

I could not break the original Toyota pitman shaft nut loose even with a 4' pipe extension on the breaker bar (broke the vise tho!) so I had to split it and the OEM arm as well to get it off. The new nut that came with the conversion pitman arm from MF fit perfectly.

 

No worries. That's what this site is all about. You'll get your turn to pass along helpful tips and knowledge. Its all good.

When you go to tackle the hoses keep in mind that the 2 fittings are different sizes; one is 16mm and the other is 17mm (I can't remember which one pressure and which one is return). On my set-up I am running the Saginaw power steering pump that bolts to my Caddy engine. My pump has standard fittings. I ended up making a short adapter to convert from standard fitting to metric fittings.
If you search around the import section of the wrecking yards you can find a pressure hose that has a male fitting on one side and a female fitting on the other. I used on of those and then I took the original pressure hose from my pump and cut the hard line section off, slipped on a metric male fitting and then reflared it leaving me with a short piece of steel line that had a standard fitting on one side and a female fitting on the other. Now I could hook up the metric pressure line.

Bobby

 

The pressure fitting on the box is 16 mm. The return fitting is a proprietary non-standard 17mm size. The return is low pressure. On my box the return fitting had a short length of steel tubing in it and the rubber return hose simply slipped onto the tube and was secured with a hose clamp. The conversion hose set MF sells comes with an adapter fitting that converts the 17 mm port to an -an fitting. I had an issue with the return hose being closer than I liked to the engine header, so I used a set of SS braid hoses from Gotta Show that came with their own low profile SS banjo fittings for both box ports. I used a Saginaw "canned ham" pump which is 16mm for pressure port and built in plain slip over tube for return.