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Clutch Change ...advice?

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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 02:28 PM
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Clutch Change ...advice?

I am about to change the clutch in my 93 F150, 5.0L - it has a 5 speed manual...

I got the perfection clutch kit from Advance, I got an OEM Slave cylinder and a new Flywheel, as I gather good info about the clutch and flywheel, but the slave cylinder in aftermarket sux so I got OEM.

This said I also bought Castrol MERC/DEX Transmax ATF for the tranny...

Anything else I should do while in there...maybe U Joints? Or any better fluids greases etc...in general any advice from someone that's done it recently...

Thx

I will be getting anything else I need tomorrow...Doing the Job Sunday
 
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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 09:11 PM
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Does the rear main need to be replaced? Now would be the time to do it.

You won't know about the U-joints until you get the drive shaft off. Most parts stores will carry that u-joint in their regular stock, so if one is open on sunday you can get them then. You may want to swap them out with greasable ones if you so wish. Removing the front shaft isn't terribly difficult, so you can put it off for another day.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 12:07 AM
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question

ATF in the transfer case as well?

thx

BTW ordering the rear main right now...great idea!
 
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 11:13 AM
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if its not leaking, I wouldn't replace it. they can be finicky, even new ones can leak.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 11:31 AM
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yes i get it

Originally Posted by '89F2urd
if its not leaking, I wouldn't replace it. they can be finicky, even new ones can leak.
But seems like a good opportunity since I'm droppin the tranny
 
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Adrenalin540
But seems like a good opportunity since I'm droppin the tranny
Opportune time, yes, to change a leaky one.

If you insist on changing it get an oem seal.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 10:44 PM
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thanks

Originally Posted by '89F2urd
Opportune time, yes, to change a leaky one.

If you insist on changing it get an oem seal.
Gotcha...seems like a recipe for disaster, drain all the old fluid, re-assemble and put the old stuff back in just doesn't seem right!

I'll change it if it leaks, I'll report back that you were right...I hope you're wrong however ...LOL we'll see

But appreciate your experience
 
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 07:19 AM
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make sure you surface the flywheel. if you don't the new plate will wear quickly. if you are going to do the seal the flywheel will be off -- take it to a good machine shop. I speak from experience.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 08:14 AM
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I got

Originally Posted by statedclerk
make sure you surface the flywheel. if you don't the new plate will wear quickly. if you are going to do the seal the flywheel will be off -- take it to a good machine shop. I speak from experience.
A new one!
 
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by statedclerk
make sure you surface the flywheel. if you don't the new plate will wear quickly.
What new PLATE will wear quickly? I know it's a common recommendation on this site to always resurface the flywheel when doing a clutch job. I disagree. I have never had to resurface a flywheel with one of these common fiber clutch discs. Now if the rivets from the old clutch disc had dug into the flywheel or it was rough for some other reason then the flywheel would require resurfacing.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 88n94
What new PLATE will wear quickly? I know it's a common recommendation on this site to always resurface the flywheel when doing a clutch job. I disagree. I have never had to resurface a flywheel with one of these common fiber clutch discs. Now if the rivets from the old clutch disc had dug into the flywheel or it was rough for some other reason then the flywheel would require resurfacing.


conventionally, hot spots on the flywheel justify a resurface also.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 10:31 PM
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thanks for the input

Got it done...took 10 hrs, But did a few more things than just the clutch, new pressure plate, new flywheel, new OEM slave cylinder, new clutch master cylinde all new fluids in Tranny and T/Case...bled it all out, changed oil, thermostat, battery cable ends, charged and cleaned battery...see the belt tensioner is on its last leg...hope it makes it till payday...LOL

Thx to everyone for the advice and help...
 
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 03:05 PM
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I will add this

For anyone changing their clutch... and pilot bearing...

Insure you have a pilot bearing removal tool before you start...it was a genuine PITA to take out ...impossible without the tool...this lesson was learned the hard way...
 
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Adrenalin540
For anyone changing their clutch... and pilot bearing...

Insure you have a pilot bearing removal tool before you start...it was a genuine PITA to take out ...impossible without the tool...this lesson was learned the hard way...
Pack grease behind the pilot and fill the pilot, take a dowel (or anything that fits relatively tight inside the pilot) and hit the g
dowel into the grease with a hammer. Pops out every time.


edit: after thinking about it, ive always used socket extensions as the grease driver.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 08:38 PM
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to be honest...

I saw the method used on youtube after I'd already fuged up the interior of the bearing...perhaps next time but the puller method worked...clutch is like butter...

I still have the shifter installed wrong...but hey it shifts awesome...I'll most likely revise the shifter tomorrow...
 
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