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Mechanical fuel pump notes.

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Old Jan 8, 2015 | 01:30 PM
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Exclamation Mechanical fuel pump notes.

Hi. I changed the mechanical fuel pump on my 1991 F-250 with 7.3. The old one was leaking. I know that most of us have done this already, so I'm not going to go into details about it. But I'd like to share a few things mainly for those who haven't done one yet just to give them some useful info.

First off just wanted to note that I used a Ford pump, part #E3TZ-9350-B.

One thing to note is if your engine has v-belts with the vacuum pump mounted below the alternator the vacuum pump needs to be removed to gain access to the fuel pump. It's best to just remove the two bolts on the tension adjustment bracket and lift the vacuum pump out attached to the bracket rather than removing the pump from the bracket.

A 5/8" flare nut wrench is the best tool for removing the fuel line from the pump to the fuel filter. It is best to unhook this before bolting the fuel pump.

Removal is pretty straight forward, not going to go into details there, but make sure the old gasket is scraped off good before re installation.

International procedure says to hand crank the engine until the notch on the harmonic balancer is at the top. There is a 50% chance this will put the cam lobe in the proper position for installation. If it is correct it will look like this inside of the pump mounting hole.




If it is wrong it will look like this:



It it is wrong rotate engine by hand 360 degrees and put the mark back on top. I used a camera phone with flash to check.

I'm not going to go into details about installation, however did want to note that there are two different styles of pump arms and the one you remove may not look the same as the one you are getting ready to install. Either style is OK to use.



Now is also a good time to change the short rubber fuel line from the fuel line to the pump that you unhooked before removal. Use a 3/8" diesel rated fuel hose.

If I forgot any important steps or other useful info please post them. Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2015 | 10:26 PM
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Personal experience is that if you're putting in a straight-lever pump(like your new one), you don't need to worry about the position of the cam. Just put the pump in with the lever angling down, and then tip the pump down until the housing is square to the block, put the bolts in and you're done.
Just be aware that when doing this, you are pumping the pump, so if it's full of fuel while doing this you will have fuel spurting out. A new pump should be empty, however.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Macrobb
Personal experience is that if you're putting in a straight-lever pump(like your new one), you don't need to worry about the position of the cam. Just put the pump in with the lever angling down, and then tip the pump down until the housing is square to the block, put the bolts in and you're done.
Just be aware that when doing this, you are pumping the pump, so if it's full of fuel while doing this you will have fuel spurting out. A new pump should be empty, however.
this is how i do it. you will know if you are under the cam because you will feel a little resistance when you try to straighten it out to put the bolts in.
works every time.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2015 | 10:22 AM
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Good info.

Let me add that I seem to recall that if you go at it from below, (under the truck), there's no need to move the vacuum pump out of the way.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater
Good info.

Let me add that I seem to recall that if you go at it from below, (under the truck), there's no need to move the vacuum pump out of the way.
Yup. Been there, done that on my spare truck. Took about 20 minutes to do it in that case. Just, be aware of dripping diesel.
 
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