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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 07:40 AM
  #61  
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From: ST JOHNS, MI
Yes I got a 0-5000psi gauge and fittings put it in the right bank one of the back ports.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 07:51 AM
  #62  
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If you're building pressure in the heads, you have fuel pressure, your IDM is new, and the wiring is all good, then I hate to say it but I think the next thing is the PCM itself. Is there anyone locally that you could borrow one from as a test before you spend $$ to buy one? Or a place to get one used?

You don't happen to have a leaky windshield do you? More than one PCM has been ruined because of windshield leaks letting water run down the a pillar and soaking the PCM.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 08:11 AM
  #63  
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From: ST JOHNS, MI
Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
If you're building pressure in the heads, you have fuel pressure, your IDM is new, and the wiring is all good, then I hate to say it but I think the next thing is the PCM itself. Is there anyone locally that you could borrow one from as a test before you spend $$ to buy one? Or a place to get one used?

You don't happen to have a leaky windshield do you? More than one PCM has been ruined because of windshield leaks letting water run down the a pillar and soaking the PCM.
No window leaks I know of. I wish I had another psd to swap out parts for testing. I've even been looking for a junker that runs to test with or even drive while fixing this one.

I have Oreillys part stores here and they have pcm's for under $200. Could I trust them? Ebay rebuilds seem to be $400up. I'd hate to go to Ford for one as they will want $$$$$
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 08:31 AM
  #64  
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I'd look at the local Craigslist or a Junk yard for a used one. I don't think that Oriley's one is a bad deal though either. I doubt their policy would allow it but maybe you could even try it and then return it if it doesn't fix your issue. I would think they would have to take it back or exchange it if the PCM were bad out of the box, so I'm not sure how that would be different than you returning it and saying you didn't need it.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 08:37 AM
  #65  
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One more thing I would try is a Motorcraft or IH CPS.

I just scanned back through all 5 pages and I don't see any mention of replacing it. That's only a $40 part and it's an easy thing to try at this point.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 08:54 AM
  #66  
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From: ST JOHNS, MI
Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
One more thing I would try is a Motorcraft or IH CPS.

I just scanned back through all 5 pages and I don't see any mention of replacing it. That's only a $40 part and it's an easy thing to try at this point.

I did replace the cps but it was a non ford/IH one. After doing some reading on these forums it is suspect. What is better the Ford blue one or IH?

I was wondering if the pcm is different for auto and stick trans? Looking at the replacement listings and it isn't listed.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 09:05 AM
  #67  
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Yeah, the non OEM ones are not reliable.

Yes, there is a difference between the auto and manual PCM. Either one of them should start the truck, but it may not run or idle right without having a "match" to your transmission type.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 09:26 AM
  #68  
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CPS should be black, like this: Motorcraft Cam Position Sensor CPS 94.5-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance


I agree with Nate.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 09:28 AM
  #69  
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Got a Ford cps coming should be ready in a few hours.

At this point running (good or not) would be a major improvment!!
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 09:32 AM
  #70  
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It makes sense to try that first. And it doesn't hurt to have a spare anyway.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 09:51 AM
  #71  
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If the wires are good and the new idm. All I see left cps, pcm, then into the mechanics of the engine like injectors and compression. But it ran just fine until that danged fuse blew.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 11:03 AM
  #72  
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Have you gotten the fuse to hold?
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 11:13 AM
  #73  
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From: ST JOHNS, MI
Originally Posted by cowmilker08
Have you gotten the fuse to hold?
Yes, I found the fuel heater was plugged in and the heater was bad. When I first found fuse 22 was blown I replaced it and that one blew making a wisp of smoke front left of the fuel bowl. I put in another fuse and it has held since. I have unplugged the heater and taped the wire.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 12:06 PM
  #74  
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Well this is frustrating, because you could have bought AE twice over for what the IDM likely costs you at the dealership.

Sound like you nearly have everything checked.

Here is my one suspicion. Did you end up changing to the SD valve cover gasket harness?? If so, I think its a great idea, although not such a great idea in the midst of a issue like this. Ive read a couple threads where guys have tried to make the switch and got one thing wrong, or didnt get the grounds connected quite well enough, and caused a no start.

Anyways, I would recheck your wiring for the new Valve cover gasket harness's and make sure you dont have this fixed, but just dont know it.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 12:15 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by onefarmer
Yes, I found the fuel heater was plugged in and the heater was bad. When I first found fuse 22 was blown I replaced it and that one blew making a wisp of smoke front left of the fuel bowl. I put in another fuse and it has held since. I have unplugged the heater and taped the wire.
Wait, so something smoked after you unplugged the fuel heater?
 
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