Would you patch or replace bed sides?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 161
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Would you patch or replace bed sides?
Drivers side.
Driver side lower rear.
Passenger side bubbles
Around the tail light is all dented up.
Like I stated in my build thread. My wife's family owns a body shop and it has been offered that they will put the bedsides on for whatever the bed sides cost. They are $249 on LMC and I can get them cheaper through the body shop. So I am basically looking at about $450 for new bed sides. Would you guys spend the $$ or use patch panels? I am going for a full restoration. Doesn't have to be show quality but just a really nice daily driver.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 161
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Well, as I said, the body shop is my father in law and his brother. I was just wanting to know what you all would do. Would you spend the $$$ and do bedsides or would you save $$$ and just do patches. I did patch panels on my other 79 I had 15 years ago. It came out ok and lasted for a long time.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 240
Likes: 1
At least yours isn't as rusty as mine. On mine I'm going to replace the box sides when I can afford it, sometimes it's cheaper in the long run. I checked with LMC on bed sides a while ago and the shipping was kind of high though.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,506
Likes: 339
From: Wildwood Pa
Its hard to say without seeing the truck in person.
I'd probably buy a complete side, but just use what was needed to repair the rust. With smaller patch panels you may have to weld 2 or more separate pieces together to make the repair. Using a whole side cut to size to do the same thing equals less seams to worry about.
I'd probably buy a complete side, but just use what was needed to repair the rust. With smaller patch panels you may have to weld 2 or more separate pieces together to make the repair. Using a whole side cut to size to do the same thing equals less seams to worry about.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 240
Likes: 1
Oh yeah, it's nice having the in-laws in the business too! 
The patches should cost less than $100
The patches should cost less than $100
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
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The wheel arch patches work well for the top. With the rust bug growing at the bottom of the well plus rust elsewhere, I think the full sides would work best. Plus with the sides off, its easy to clean and paint the hidden parts.
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Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
I would say you better locate some complete replacement bed sides and price ck them first, I bet patch panel will look better after that.
You do know that the edge lip curve on a front fender is the same as the bed, hit the Jy for a set of spare front fenders to get the panels.
No matter what, cut the rust out and replace with new metal. The biggest issue on the bed is where the inner fenderwell is tack welded to the bed side, it has a bad drain design.
You do know that the edge lip curve on a front fender is the same as the bed, hit the Jy for a set of spare front fenders to get the panels.
No matter what, cut the rust out and replace with new metal. The biggest issue on the bed is where the inner fenderwell is tack welded to the bed side, it has a bad drain design.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
I'd patch or pull all that... relatively easy IMO.... been there, done it already . I'd add a stud gun/puller to the tool arsenal.
Below is the culprit of wheel arch rust. A crappily designed wheel well liner. See the dark area? That's where mud, pebbles, and dirt gets trapped because the fricken drain holes are too few and too small. It never dries out. The solution is to section out large areas so it drains better and weld it back in because it braces the bed side.
Below is the culprit of wheel arch rust. A crappily designed wheel well liner. See the dark area? That's where mud, pebbles, and dirt gets trapped because the fricken drain holes are too few and too small. It never dries out. The solution is to section out large areas so it drains better and weld it back in because it braces the bed side.
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 17,708
Likes: 136
From: Calgary
Make sure the person who did the previous body work on your truck doesn't touch it. In fact chop off that persons hands if you can. Use patch panels and yes front fenders work real good for wheel arches, if you see a set of mint condition fenders buy them and resale them and use the money to buy a crappy set that has the metal you need for the repair.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 917
Likes: 14
I'd patch or pull all that... relatively easy IMO.... been there, done it already . I'd add a stud gun/puller to the tool arsenal.
Below is the culprit of wheel arch rust. A crappily designed wheel well liner. See the dark area? That's where mud, pebbles, and dirt gets trapped because the fricken drain holes are too few and too small. It never dries out. The solution is to section out large areas so it drains better and weld it back in because it braces the bed side.
Below is the culprit of wheel arch rust. A crappily designed wheel well liner. See the dark area? That's where mud, pebbles, and dirt gets trapped because the fricken drain holes are too few and too small. It never dries out. The solution is to section out large areas so it drains better and weld it back in because it braces the bed side.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 917
Likes: 14
Ive been into auto collision,Restoration for over 30yrs. I would charge more to repair the OP box sides than i would to R&R an outer complete skin, patching is much more labor intense than an outer skin. While the complete skin is off you can easily repair and correct any issue there is behind the skin. I will be replacing my skin's this spring and if any one would like i can do a step by step to show how easy this is and what tools you need, i have both complete box side outer skins sitting here waiting.
New User
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 10
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From: Warfordsburg
I would definitely like to see that.