Last night, I tired to install a "wicked wheel" from Riff Raff on my 1999 F250.

First issue was not having a 12 point 8 mm (or 5/16") socket. I went to Advanced and picked one up. The only one they had was shallow well, and I couldn't reach all 5 bolts with the tools I had, so I had to remove the turbo (UGH). Instant thoughts (or nightmares) jumped to the last time I did removed the turbo for the EBPV delete and Pedestal Plug a while back and how horrible that back "V" Clamp was. Regardless, it had to be done this time.

Procedure was (already had the intake off, because I was replacing my Airrade CAI with a 6637 intake and Zoo-dad mod), then remove drivers side upper IC boot, passengers side upper IC boot, unhook both lower spider boots, remove spider and all connections on it (did the AIH removal mod while I was at it), remove exhaust side "V" clamp, loosen 2 turbo mounting bolts, remove rear (lower) "V" clamp, remove turbo.

I fought with the rear "V" clamp for well over an hour before I finally got it free (and that's just getting it off). Anyways, I changed the compressor wheels out, and now the real fun begins (getting everything back together). Anyways... after another hour (or more most likely), I finally got it back on. I rehooked everything back up, and got it all put back together. I started it, and it sounded rough (not rough like obvious, just a bit not as smooth). Anyway, it was making some weird noises (hard to describe), and the engine bay (even with the hood up) was tough to breath while trying to track down the noise.

Now's where the bad news happened. After letting it run while I was putting tools away (a bit too ambitious), I backed it out of the carport, and I noticed about a thick 3 feet diameter pool of oil. Instant sinking feeling. I had hernia surgery, and boy did I want to get all of that fixed prior to it, but it looks like I'm stuck waiting till I can do it again sometime.

What did I do wrong? I took some pictures of the valley (the best I could) after I pulled it back in the carport and shut it down to try to help you guys help me determine where it could be leaking from (or what could be going on). It was probably running for a total of about 5 minutes. The valley wasn't soaked like I've had it before, but the area around the pedestal had fresh oil on it.

2 things that did go "wrong" during put back together was the trouble I mentioned with the rear "V" clamp. It was just not going, so what I did was back off the "T" bolt all the way, and removing it. Then I took a sawsall and cut down the collar the "T" bolt goes through so I wouldn't have to stretch it so far (definitely recommend if you're having issues with it). I don't think that would have caused it though - still seemed to make a good connection. The other thing was that I lost one of the nuts that holds the wastegate to the intake side of the turbo housing. Again - don't think this matters, but I figured I'd give all the details.

Area of concern... the connection face between the turbo and the Turbo Pedestal. It appeared to have 4 ports. The middle 2 had yellow o-rings that I thought I made sure to be delicate with them when reinstalling the turbo.

Please help, guys! Thanks and sorry for the long write-up.

 

Can you tell if the oil is coming from that interface between the turbo and pedestal? My guess is either one of those yellow O-rings slipped out of place, or they just don't seal well after reuse. Order a turbo reinstall kit from Clay, as it comes with Vitron versions of those O-rings.

Mark

 

I had the same thing once after an engine pull. Accidentally pinched one of those orings. It left a puddle the same size on the floor. As much of a pain as it is, at least it's a cheap fix.

 

I think it actually hurts worse than my hernia right now... knowing I spent about 4-5 hours of my life, got all bumped and banged up, and I'm gonna have to do it again.

I had a list of mods I wanted to get done. and I got 4 of them done, but turns out I have to redo them...

1. Wicked Wheel Installation
2. AIH delete
3. Change CAI to 6637 intake filter
4. Zoo-dad mod
5. Vacuum pump (replace ESOF hoses and possibly track down a leak and maybe replaced pump)
6. Track down fuel pump leak (possibly just replace pump - if I can find one of those $38 ones that's been on ebay.

The only saving grace is that the rear V-Clamp shouldn't be as tough this time to both remove (not seized up) and install (cut down the collar the bolt goes through).

I'll change and post back. Thanks again, guys. Sucks even more because this the oil change I was trying out Rev-X. Ugh. Oh well. Expensive blunder.

 

I feel your pain. My blunder was made on an engine pull. At the time, I didn't know much about 7.3 diesels. 2x I made the mistake if assuming I had screwed up my rear main seal...and pulled the engine back out. I finally figured out on the 3rd install what I was doing wrong and realized...I had crushed that turbo oring!

 

What's the easiest way to install them? There are 4 (2 upper and 2 lower). I'm just wondering if the upper ones are actually easier to just set in position on the pedestal and set the turbo mounting face down on them?

Thanks again, man.

 

I feel your pain friend. I am very meticulous when it comes to performing repairs on my 2000 7.3 because that is the type of person I am. I need to be 100% sure of what I am doing before going into the project, that way if something goes wrong I at least have an idea of where to start to correct the problem. This is my first diesel truck, and I love it, the power, the sound and the way it provides for my family every time I ask it to do some work.

Anyway, just from what you have told us, I feel you may have pinched or damaged one of the lower o-rings. Here is a good video showing exactly what needs to happen, even though I know you were just in there, maybe you will see something different or learn something different.


Also, you should always (well most times) replace o-rings on parts that you are putting back together because they may have been in there for years and will not seat properly after being removed or having their position altered.

Here are the o-rings from RiffRaff that you would need to fix what we believe is your problem.

Turbo / Pedestal O-rings - Riffraff Diesel Performance

Also, if you have a moment I have a question for you. Did you buy the compressor anti-surge wheel located here or the newer style here?

How did you go about removing the old wheel and installing the new one? Did you simply use an air tool and spin the mounting nut off like I see most guys doing or do you have a better/safer method? the reason why I ask is because my o-rings on the stock turbo pedestal are leaking into the valley and I am now looking to replace them, possibly the turbo wheel and all of the o-rings that I will be accessing.

Thanks for any advice you can offer on the compressor wheel and good luck with your repairs.

 

i think it was a godsend for the oil, because, that noise your describing/hearing, is not right. Take comp off and have a gander at the "seating" of the w.w.

 

I went with the cheaper one ($65 ish / the first link). Although after reading the description of the more expensive one, I was definitely jealous and rethought my decision. For me, it wasn't intended to be a performance mod. I just wanted to prevent the excessive turbo wear from the shuttering I'm experiencing at high rpm's with my ts 6 position chip. Although technically, it kind of is a performance mod in a round-about way. I knew to be gentle with it until I got the new wheel to not cause damage to my turbo. So, basically now (well, when it's not pouring oil on the ground by the gallon) I can actually access the additional power.

My removal/reinstall of the wheel was a bit of a combination. I borrowed a buddy's weak 2 hp / 4 gallon compressor with impact wrench. As mentioned in the op, I had to remove the entire turbo (which it sounds like you'll be doing), so it was free to do whatever with. I tried the impact wrench to remove and it didn't feel like it was backing off at all, so I took a socket and a hammer a gave it a wack or 7 till I felt like it was a bit lose. Then I used the impact wrench to finish it off which worked great.

As far as installing goes, I hand spun it to a certain point and then impact wrench for a good bit more (wrapped a rag around the blades and grabbed it with gloves - saw it in a you tube video by some guy named scuffy or something similar). Didn't have specs, so once I held it for a while with my hand I finished it off with 2-3 more wacks of a hammer (want to make sure you don't go off center when hitting it so it doesn't bend the shaft - probably isn't the smartest, but it felt fine afterwards with no extra resistance). And without tools, it was what in had to work with.

Let me know if you need anything else. I'm glad to help.

 

Are you saying that more extensive damage could have resulted if I wouldn't have noticed it? I felt like it was definitely better that I did notice it. Don't really want to think about running it much in the condition it was in. Eesh.

 

Here's the video that shows the only guy I've found that holds the wheel while tightening it. Gotta be tough if you want to play with scuffy.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZAAjrHnHN0

It's a pretty good write up.

 

I think he's saying if you have a weird noise you should track it down before running anymore in case something didn't go back together right in the turbo. Prevent damage? Did you find the cause for the noise already?

 

No. It wasn't a weird noise. It was the best explanation I had to describe "it sounded different than it did before, but I did remove the aih and changed the filter to a 6637 along with the new compressor wheel. Just assumed the different sound was due to one or all of those.

But knowing where it was leaking oil coupled with the strong exhaust smell in the engine bay, I'm just assuming it was the inconsistent pressure and air leaks under and turbo from the o-rings (or at least I'm going that's what it was).

Sound like it could be that?

 

A common fuel leak in there is the passenger side fuel line. The support clip rubs thru. It is located under the turbo, pretty much. Replacement line available from RiffRaff. Use some insulating rubber on the support clip to prevent this. Leak could be from other sources I 'spose.

Once back in there, grab the new wheel and check for play. Just checking to see if the bearings supporting the shaft are ok.

A small dab of vaseline will help retain the o rings at installation.

For swapping the wheel I'd recommend the instructions found at RiffRaff.

The 6637 will definitely sound different. Good bang for the buck there. A cover will keep the big stuff off and help longevity. I did not feel like paying for the cover so I used a pair of my wife's pantyhose. Fits well with the legs tied and cut off. Choice of colors too.

 

I actually did use pantyhose. I got the 3x size in black. Each leg was enough to cover it once so I made 2 layers out of it.

As far as the fuel leak, were you letting me know since I'm going to be back in there or because of the leak comment I made earlier? The fuel is leaking directly under the pump inside the driver's side frame real and leaks bad recently, so I'm not sure where it's coming from, but it's definitely happening. So I'm going to take the foam cover around it off and clean it and examine it.

Either way, thanks for the advice.

As far as the turbo shaft goes, I think we're safe. It felt really solid after it was finally tight. Spun smooth, with no slop, so I think I'm ok.