I used #3. What they should have done when made the shaft was beef up one area of the shaft, drilled a hole so you can slide a steel rod or screwdriver through it to hold the shaft from spinning and then you can remove the wheel.

 

Look at the exhaust turbine, it may have a hex on it for a socket. One of my turbos does, the other doesn't for whatever reason.

 

I would say yours was done like that for balancing reasons and it just so happen that u could put a socket on it.

 

I would think that putting the screwdriver in the exhaust side would have a high chance of bending/twisting one of the exhaust side fans. I believe that RiffRaff has instructions that state one should hold the exhaust side shaft with vice grips while removing the compressor wheel. Although, based on the some of the pictures I have seen I don't know how stable that would be.

 

From the look of it, I doubt thats the case, honestly.

 

Yeah that was just a guess without actually seeing it.

 

Any response to the above question?

I also still need the thread size for the wastegate bolt the nut goes on if anyone could help with that.

Thanks, guys.

 

I just measured my spare wastegate with my tap & die set and its 24. Hope this helps what ur looking for.

 

Don't you need the diameter plus the thread size?

Something like 1/4" x 24 or something? I mean I know the wrench size is 10 mm, but I need to know the inside diameter plus the thread size, I think.

I appreciate you measuring. Just didn't know if that would get me what I need when I head to the hardware store.

Thanks again for all of your help!

 

I didn't have a die to fit. The only thing I was able to use was the gauge that cks the thread size. Why not take the other part with u to the hardware store and match them up.

 

I believe my early 99 wheel had the nut thing on the exhaust side. Made it easy for install and removal with turbo out. That mitt of been the way they made them then.

 

That would make perfect sense. One of my turbochargers is early '99, the other is 99.5.

 

I may end up having to. I was trying to save myself some time. I live close to 15 minutes from the nearest hardware store and I can't reach the other nut until I start taking my truck apart.

 

To close the loop...

I had a fellow FTE member drive down from Nashville to help me remove the turbo again to replace the o-rings. I wasn't the one that turned the wrench, but he said the rear turbo mounting bolt didn't feel very tight - all that work, and it could have just been that (since the o-rings looked fine). Who knows?

Regardless, it wasn't leaking oil the first time we put it back together, however, there was an exhaust leak from the back v-clamp. So it was taken back apart and we ended up loosening the up-pipes to give enough play to allow the rear v-clamp to seem air tight.

We put it back together and there were no oil leaks and no exhaust leaks. Yay! While Joe was working with the turbo, I changed out the fuel pump that was dripping from somewhere (see... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...king-7-3l.html). I ended up replacing fuel pump with one of the $38 ones on ebay. It appears to be leaking from the rear connection to the pump, but I can't tell if it's from the hose clamps or from around the brass fitting that's connected to the plastic outlet of the pump. I hope I didn't tighten the brass fitting down too much.

Anyways - that's another problem (and one I won't ask questions about until I get into it again to take a better look at the leak). But the summary is that a quality guy drove an hour out of his way to came down and help a gimp do some work to get his truck back up and running. I wanted you all to know. Thanks again, Joe. And all you guys for your help. Thanks to you too, Mark.

 

Good to hear u got it fixed. Does Joe have a screen name on here so we can send him some rep points?