Is the stock fuel line you're talking about rubber hose or metal tubing with the quick disconnect clamps like what comes stock from the fuel pump under the driver's side rail unless you replace it worth hose too?

 

did the same install, and bam!, broke the shaft of turbo after few months. Come to find out, i didnt 'seat' the wheel/shaft correctly. The wheel set flush with the shaft, where its suppose to be...the shaft protruding from wheel about 3/16-1/4in....(the shaft , when installing the wheel, was not seated, making the wheel not installed right. The snap ring/oil ring on the shaft, was not in its respected grove)

 

That hurts, man. I'm sorry. How much did it cost to fix that?

Your punctuation through me off a bit. Were you saying that the end of the shaft was supposed to be protruding about 3/16-1/4" out the end of the compressor wheel and your shaft was flush with the end? Or the other way around (yours was protruding and it was supposed to be flush)? Everything I've read so far has said install the new one to the same depth as it was when you took it off (which is usually shown protruding about 3/16-14"). Mine was protruding and when I was done seating it if was about the same depth as before.

I'm sorry - I had trouble understanding your last part of your last post too? What were you saying about the snap ring / oil ring was not in it's appropriate groove? I didn't remove a snap ring /oil ring from mine. Is something wrong? Or is that inside/under the compressor wheel somewhere?

Thanks in advance for some clarification.

 

Brett, I think he rebuilt his turbo when installing the new wheel. When doing that, there are two snap rings that have to seat in grooves. You wouldn't see them if you just replaced the wheel.

Mark

 

Thanks, Mark! And I do want my shaft protruding a little, right?

 

What got me was you said there are 4 holes on the pedestal. 2 middle ones are the only 2 that get orings. The other 2 are for the bolts to into. Also was the turbo flat on the pedestal front and back? Never never reuse orings.

 

Yes, though I'm not terribly qualified to tell you how much. I just posted a pic of mine in my "Critique my turbo rebuild" thread, if it helps.

Mark

 

I just looked a my wheel I installed and the shaft protrudes out about 1/16" past the wheel.

 

Yup. I'm a dummy. I realized that after I looked at a picture of the top of the pedestal I saw the same thing. I assumed all 4 that were shown in Clay's kit were all for the top plate of the pedestal instead of there being 2 above and 2 below.

I don't remember replacing them when I deleted the ebpv from the pedestal a couple years ago, but I could be wrong. Plus I didn't plan on removing the turbo ahead of time, so I didn't get them ahead of time. But when I couldn't get to the 5 housing bolts, I had to improvise.

 

I changed the wheel on my stock turbo and as tough as it was to get the old wheel off it never entered my mind to break out the great convincer (hammer). I hope all the internals are still sound.

 

So how did you end up getting it off?

I hope they're sound too. We'll find out though. I'll keep you posted.

 

I carefully used vise grips on the exhaust side shaft and with patience and persistence it finally 'broke' loose. I did the same with the 38r but it was brand new so it came off a lot easier.

 

I feel like I would have put just as much sideway force using the impact wrench on one side and vice grips on the other as I did this way. I used the right size socket and a short extension to get it up a little. Then with one hand I held the socket/extension up straight and with the other hit the end of about a 10" wrench as straight as possible too.

Oh, I hope I didn't mess anything up. Please let me know what could have gone wrong and the consequences so I know what to look for when it's running again.

Also, I wish I would have found Clay's instructions before I started. He has "do not over tighten the compressor wheel on the shaft" in bold letters. Eesh - I got it tight too. What do you all think is the concern/consequences there?

I just want to take this opportunity to thank you guys for being so responsive! You truly are a wonderful community and I'm blessed to know you guys. Thanks again.

Clay, if you're reading this, please add "12 point" to the 8mm or 5/16" socket description. It's important and apparently not as common if a tool as I thought.

And 1 more thing, if someone has the size of the 2 wastgate actuator nuts, since I'm going to have to take it back apart, that'd be very helpfuI.

Thanks again!

 

I'm pretty sure they are 10mm.

 

10mm is the outside nut size, but what is the inside size. In other words, I need the bolt size, I guess?