How do you change the module on the distributor on a 1989 F350 with the EFI 460? I hate to take the dist out to do it, but I don't see any other way to get to the back bolt on the module. Front came out with no problem.

I did take the hold down loose on the dist., but it won't budge, am I missing something? I hate to move it. If I just pick it up enough to change the module, will it have to be timed, or will it stay in place?

The truck misses and bucks when accelerating, that's why we are changing this. Changed it about 10 years ago when it had the same problem, worked great until recently.

 

Sometimes there is no other way to get to the second screw. Pulling the distributor is the only way out.

Bucking and missing can also be caused by low fuel pressure. Does the truck have two tanks? Does it happen on both?

 

One tank, only does it when its under a hard pull and you accelarate. I'm also doing plugs and wires, they are 13 years old, but only 10k since they were changed. So it will have to be timed?

 

Yes, if you pull the distributor out it will need to be retimed. There's no way to put it back exactly as it was. But be careful as you take it out to make note of exactly where the rotor is. You want to be able to get it back with the rotor oriented to the cam exactly as it was. You'll still need to time it, but at least you'll be able to!

 

Doesn't matter if you can get all the bolts out of the module or not, it won't come off even if you do. The distributor has to be pulled from the motor, the drive gear pressed off, and the shaft removed from the distributor.

 

I mark the distributor base with small chisel aligned with the cut out in the block. Then rotate the distributor. If it is tough to move use ph blaster or its equal and start working it back and forth. I have changed these many times without pulling distributor. Strap wrench works well.

 

Oh my mistake.. I read you were changing the module inside the distributor not the one on the outside of it... that you should be able to accomplish without pulling the dizzy out in this case.

 

No it's the one outside the dizzy. Now the problem is the SOB is stuck in the block, heated, PB blaster, Kroil, heated & beat, big wrench on it, heat and beat, hammer and chisel, heat and beat, just won't budge.

It was last removed/adjusted in 2000/2001, and the truck sat for 4 years since, so it's had plenty of time to get stuck.

Local junk yard says they have them for $25-$30 for a "good" used. They said just break it off. I'm not crazy about that.

I'm at a point where I'm thinking of pulling the damn engine. Both exhaust manifolds are cracked, and some studs are broken off in the head, the clutch was replaced a very long time ago, and the flywheel wasn't machined, so it chatters, this dizzy issue, and on top of all this the air cleaner is oil soaked. I think during it's "rest" the rings got stuck. It has a lot of blow by. It only has 157K on it.

What do you guys think?

It's in a seldom used dump truck, some construction jobs but mostly hauling grain now on the farm. BUT next summer it's going to have to go 2.5 hours each way into Ohio to drop off/pick up grain. I'm thinking the tow bill will exceed the rebuild kit. It is my Dad's truck and he says no, new dizzy if it needs it and run it till it puts a rod thru the block. I learned to drive in this truck, I'd like it to hang around a very long time yet.

It was wrecked about 7 years ago, all new front flip and doors, shiny black paint. Looks nice, dump bed needs relined, but that's only about $150. Best of all it's paid for!!! It's a 4x2 if that matters.

I have a well trusted machine shop at the local NAPA, been working with them for 25 years now. So machine work isn't a problem. I don't want to go hog wild, but for sure the heads need gone thru and the crank polished.

I'm thinking just rings, pistons and bearings, seal it up and it should go back to work, providing the bores aren't nasty. I'd rather not get into boring them or turning the crank.

What is a good rebuild kit? NAPA, or there is one on eBay for $450 minus the valley gasket?

Thanks