Brake Booster
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
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Brake Booster
Im wondering how much work this would be to install on my 64 F100.
Then Im wondering if I would ever find a replacement if needed.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Hydrovac-Booster-Midland-Ford-Truck-63-and-64-One-Ton-Through-B750-/131366617930?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e960f834a&vxp=mtr
Then Im wondering if I would ever find a replacement if needed.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Hydrovac-Booster-Midland-Ford-Truck-63-and-64-One-Ton-Through-B750-/131366617930?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e960f834a&vxp=mtr
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
The thing with brakes from my limited research, is it can't be done piecemeal very effectively. Start adding stuff and it can cause problems. I don't think there is any proportioning valve on a single pot four way drum system, but with a booster? I dunno.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Right, 7/8ths bore in the rears, 1" bore for the front cylinders, with drums all the way around. That's what I'm getting at though, lots of people mix and match brake components and it doesn't always work out like they think it should.
If you've added a booster before, you probably already know how much work it is. How much work was it?
If you've added a booster before, you probably already know how much work it is. How much work was it?
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Im wondering how much work this would be to install on my 64 F100.
Then Im wondering if I would ever find a replacement if needed.
Brake Hydrovac Booster Midland Ford Truck 63 and 64 One Ton Through B750 | eBay
Then Im wondering if I would ever find a replacement if needed.
Brake Hydrovac Booster Midland Ford Truck 63 and 64 One Ton Through B750 | eBay
Seller says in description that this is a Midland-Ross C-4025 Hydro-Vac. It ain't!This is a 1963/66 F350/600 (not a B500/750 school bus) Midland-Ross C-4025 P/B booster, but it mounts on the firewall (dash), so it's not a Hydro-Vac.
A Hydro-Vac is a remote (frame) mounted booster. These were used mainly on trucks when there was no room on the firewall to mount a conventional booster.
Hydro-Vac's also used on 1955/57 Thunderbirds. If a conventional firewall booster was used, it wouldn't allow the hood to be closed.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Speaking of brake bias, the new brakes work really well on my 64. But noticed in hard braking or on gravel the rear brakes lock up first. Have read different views on this, tho mostly that the rears locking up first is always bad, in terms of handling.
In the case of a drum/drum system w/ a single pot only the adjusters would seem to be the remedy. I may try backing off a couple clicks on the rear adjusters.
In the case of a drum/drum system w/ a single pot only the adjusters would seem to be the remedy. I may try backing off a couple clicks on the rear adjusters.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
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Adding the booster to my 66 was easy since it was a factory option. I found a set of brackets in the JY and Bumper-2-Bumper sells a booster/MC that is factory correct, including the proper pushrod. It was all P-N-P, no mods other than adding a fitting to the manifold for vacuum, rebending the brakeline and extending the wires for the stoplight switch.
I don't think the 64 has the proper holes in the firewall for the F350 booster. These boosters are very rare and I don't want to drill the holes, then find out it doesn't work or it fails and I cant rebuild it or find a replacement.
I don't think the 64 has the proper holes in the firewall for the F350 booster. These boosters are very rare and I don't want to drill the holes, then find out it doesn't work or it fails and I cant rebuild it or find a replacement.
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Post Fiend
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
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Logistics Pro
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From: tujunga, calif
Speaking of brake bias, the new brakes work really well on my 64. But noticed in hard braking or on gravel the rear brakes lock up first. Have read different views on this, tho mostly that the rears locking up first is always bad, in terms of handling.
In the case of a drum/drum system w/ a single pot only the adjusters would seem to be the remedy. I may try backing off a couple clicks on the rear adjusters.
In the case of a drum/drum system w/ a single pot only the adjusters would seem to be the remedy. I may try backing off a couple clicks on the rear adjusters.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
That's what I'm figuring, since the bed is (mostly) empty. Has some firewood in it. But the way a pickup is configured it's going to have that unsprung weight in the back in a hard stop.
I should be able to get the fronts to lock up too though, right? The brakes aren't completely bedded in yet they should only get better.
I should be able to get the fronts to lock up too though, right? The brakes aren't completely bedded in yet they should only get better.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
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From: Coal country
SR, I would give serious consideration to using a brake booster (and brackets) as is commonly used on '70s trucks. You'll still need to drill some holes, I think, but since this upgrade will require alterations, might as well do it for parts that will be around for a while longer.
Look for the booster bracket that has a flat bar between the pedal and the booster. For me, since I have no machining or welding skill, it was easier to drill a hole in the bar than to cut and weld round rods. (Mine went into my '66, so I am only assuming that the bar will be long enough between the firewall and the pedal.)
Also, the booster will need to be mounted where the firewall is reinforced, not just flat sheet steel.
Hope these comments help.
John - Banjo -
Look for the booster bracket that has a flat bar between the pedal and the booster. For me, since I have no machining or welding skill, it was easier to drill a hole in the bar than to cut and weld round rods. (Mine went into my '66, so I am only assuming that the bar will be long enough between the firewall and the pedal.)
Also, the booster will need to be mounted where the firewall is reinforced, not just flat sheet steel.
Hope these comments help.
John - Banjo -
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Fleet Mechanic
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I have a couple 70s brackets that have the flat bar.
I also have a booster/mc setup I bought for a 65 Mustang that I think will work on the 64 F100 if I flip the brackets upside down and drill a new hole for the lower mount.
The 1964 F350 bracket tilts the front of the booster/mc up and that tilts the pushrod down. I think it needs to be that way to align the pushrod to the hole in the brake pedal properly. But, Im not sure on that.
We were in the 66 F100 right after I bought it. The PO told me all new brakes. I hit the brakes and the pedal went all the way to the floor. When the truck stopped my wife looked at me and asked how I knew to use the emergency brake. I didn't even realize that I had pulled it. That's how we did it in the old days before 2 pot mc's. Im fine with leaving the single pot on there until it needs to be replaced.
I also have a booster/mc setup I bought for a 65 Mustang that I think will work on the 64 F100 if I flip the brackets upside down and drill a new hole for the lower mount.
The 1964 F350 bracket tilts the front of the booster/mc up and that tilts the pushrod down. I think it needs to be that way to align the pushrod to the hole in the brake pedal properly. But, Im not sure on that.
We were in the 66 F100 right after I bought it. The PO told me all new brakes. I hit the brakes and the pedal went all the way to the floor. When the truck stopped my wife looked at me and asked how I knew to use the emergency brake. I didn't even realize that I had pulled it. That's how we did it in the old days before 2 pot mc's. Im fine with leaving the single pot on there until it needs to be replaced.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Well that's the next thing. If a dual master cylinder isn't setup right for a full stroke, it won't be any better than a single cylinder. The pedal will go right to the floor if a hose or something fails. Worse, it will give a false sense of security. Plenty of people have lost all brakes running dual M/C.
Elder User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 506
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From: Moodus, CT
I'm assuming that you bought this because it is no longer an active listing. It looks like a good deal to me, I have a 64 F-350 and if I saw it sooner I mighta snatched it up. They are HARD to find... I would have gotten it just to have a spare for only $80 
Nice find; the only other one I've seen.
Nice find; the only other one I've seen.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
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I didn't buy it.
I wanted it, even if I didn't use it, I could have made $100 or so.
I see threads once in a while on how hard it is to find these things, I didn't want to take it from someone who needed it to get a truck on the road.
I wanted it, even if I didn't use it, I could have made $100 or so.
I see threads once in a while on how hard it is to find these things, I didn't want to take it from someone who needed it to get a truck on the road.
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