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The brace in mine was a simple Z-shaped strip of brass, with the legs soldered to the front and rear inside vertical faces of the tank. You couldn't tell it was there from the outside. You'll find out when you have yours rodded out. If there isn't one there, you could have them add one ( or two).
Good idea to add them. As long as we have had the truck, the damned tank would thump as it heated or cooled, like an old steam radiator.
So, the transplant of the Classic Haulers' brass and copper four row radiator is finally complete. This is what it looks like:
From another angle:
As has already been noted, the new radiator is a little taller than the original. The holes for attaching the new radiator didn't quite match up and the adjustments to the holes made the radiator sit even taller. Closing the hood is a very close thing. I think I have about a half inch to spare, but my hood needs some major adjustments to fit properly. Hopefully the half inch clearance will hold up.
I have the original mandrel bent tube for my upper radiator hose set-up. To accommodate the height of the new radiator, I had to increase the short rubber connecting hose from 3 inches to 6. Sadly this kind of spoils the stock look I had going on with my rare medal tube.
The holes for the shroud didn't match up at all. New holes had to be drilled. I can't speak yet on how the new radiator performs, but as far as installation goes, it didn't exactly just bolt right in. The jury is still out on whether or not my hood is going to close.
Originally Posted by pineconeford;15757504[COLOR="Red"
]I have a hand-crank on my truck and would miss that feature if I were to buy a new radiator. [/COLOR]
But.......the local radiator shops get $700+ to recore and repair radiators like ours.
If my original radiator ever fails, I'll have a tough choice to make.
The coolness factor of a hand-crank, or a good solid new radiator.
Tom
.
Even though it is an older thread, I found it helpful and decided to add to it.
First, note the drain location on a new radiator. Mine is different from stock.
Second;
I just got a radiator back from a shop here on the west side of Phoenix. I was impressed when I walked up with an old radiator out of a junkyard and the young guy says "someone wants me to cool a Flathead in Arizona."
Long story short...
He is 3rd generation in this shop (Avondale, AZ) and recored and repaired several patches on my tanks. He tested it to 20lbs with no leaks and recommended a 7lb cap.
Cost....$500.
THE BEST PART......
I too wanted the ability to be able to use/show the hand crank. The PO of my truck put a new radiator in that was flat across the bottom, hence the reason to get a junker.
This gentleman said any reputable shop should be able to cut the bottom tank and put the crank bevel in. He said he could do it from memory but if you take it to another shop, take a photo of how you want it to look.
I'll take mine in and let him do it so I have a backup.
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