My radiator was found to have issues. It is out of the truck and at what is said to be the best radiator shop in my area. The shop says that my radiator could be repaired for about $200, but recommends after the repair to use a special low/no pressure cap and avoid long trips. For highway driving and a long term solution, they recommend a re-core for about $800. Classic Haulers advertises what they characterize as a stock radiator for my truck for $450. The radiator shop, naturally, cautions against cheap after market replacements. They like the "real" metal used in our original radiators. A final option might be to try and find an original radiator in a scrap yard. I am in the process of purchasing some sheet metal parts from an F6 in Oklahoma. Maybe this vehicle has a usable radiator?

So, these seem to be my options. What do you think? My truck is all original and I do not plan any modifications.

 

I'd vote for a recore, but $800 is out of line. Nothing cools better than copper (brass). Shop around, $400 - $450 is believable for a quality recore.

 

I would replace it if you can. Old radiators can be a can of worms. Fix one spot and it starts leaking somewhere else. $800 seems high for a recore.

 

I'm having my radiator re-cored, for around $600. I had called classic haulers, because my catalog listed a "stock" flat head radiator for $375. The price I got from them was more in the mid $500 range. I took another look at my catalog, and it's from 2013. Prices must have gone up since then.

 

A recore around here was quoted at $700 plus tax. (six cylinder type)

So I bought a used one from a member here that was in better shape than my original and took it to a rad shop for leak repair. They painted it, did some considerable repairs and charged $150.
It seems to be holding up OK but even if it takes a whiz on me sometime and I have to put another $150 into it - that is still way less than the cost of getting a recore.

I have more time than money.


.

 

My original somehow sprang several leaks while out of the truck. The recore quote was over $500 a couple of years ago when copper was higher. The new one from LMC looks close to OE and was less than $300 for a 262 I6.

 

Mine was re-cored locally (4-row) for $425.

If the Classic Haulers' is a duplicate, that's not a bad price. The "direct replacement" from Mid fifty looks to be a duplicate, I don't know why CH's wouldn't be. You could call them and ask.

If you don't want a new one because they may be made in China consider this: The new cores are also mostly made in China. Not all of them, but most.

Edit: The reason I didn't consider a used one was because there is no way of knowing how thin the tubes are corroded. It might last a year, it might last ten years. I want mine to last until they have to drain it to bury me in it. I wouldn't want them to get into trouble for contaminating the soil.

 

Ordered one from MidFifty just last week for $400. Four core alum/brass.

1953-56 Ford F-100 Radiator 4 Row, Center/driver, Black - 91070-4

 

I just went thru this dilemma myself. I needed a radiator for each of the two 6 cyl trucks and had only one used one. I took the used one to a local radiator shop for leak testing and of course it leaked badly. They recommended a recore with what they claimed was an industrial core (they do a lot of work on industrial and agriculture machines). I went ahead and had it recored for $500.
For the second radiator I looked at both LMC and Superior Radiator (which is local for me). I sent a note to LMC asking about the radiator construction materials as well as its place of origin. I got a note back saying it was a copper/brass construction but that they do not give out the information on the country of origin. US Radiator lists LMC as one of their distributors but it bothered me that I might end up with a direct from China unit. Their price was $297 including all the oversize shipping. Superior radiator makes their units per your order and they are made right here in Michigan. Since Superior is local (no shipping) and is custom made to my specifications (and it was on sale) I bought at Superior. It is an aluminum 2 core unit with 1" tubes which they claim cools better that a standard 3 core 3/4" tube copper/brass unit sold as original equipment. I have the top inlet centered with a 1.5" tube directed down at a 45 degree angle just like the original. The lower tube is on the passenger side and is a 1 3/4" tube. Matches my recored unit very well with the exception of the color. Since my F2 is not being kept 100% original anyways, the difference is no big deal to me. Oh yes, I paid $315 for the unit from Superior (normally $350). Superior sells on the internet (by phone really) and sells on Ebay as well under the name "dissrad". Feedback on Ebay is 100% positive with over 5450 sales.

Good luck with your decision!

Oh yes, the Superior unit also comes with a 2 year warranty.

 

Thank-you. I appreciate all of you who took the time to respond to my question. This forum gives one access to an incredible wealth of knowledge and experience. Based on the advice received, I am going to shop around for a cheaper (and also an American made) re-core or purchase a stock new unit from Classic Haulers or one of the other sources mentioned. Thank-you again for helping with my decision and merry Christmas everyone.

 

Just got my rad from classic haulers yesterday. Made in Calfornia at U.S. Radiator Corporation. Looks good. $420.00 plus $72.00 shipping to Sweetgrass Montana. Canada border.









Close. Filler neck center of tank and doesn't have metal overflow tube.

 

Muppy 1840-

How would you compare the weight of your replacement radiator to your original? My radiator shop guy made quite a point of the fact that aftermarket units would be much lighter (e.g. thinner metal) than our original radiators? Thanks for posting up the picture comparison. U.S. Radiator (I believe they are the supplier for Classic Haulers) does have pretty much have the original look that would be important to me.

 

Had my 52 6 cyl radiator 4 row recored for $448.00 here in Erie, PA

 

The absolutely critical thing is to have the lower rad connections at the same spacing and height when the rad is mounted in the saddle. Can you put the two rads face-to-face with their inlets/outlets aligned, and see if the mounting holes are aligned? The lowers absolutely have to be aligned with the WP inlets when mounted.

 

The weight of my old rad is 35 lbs and the new one is 24 lbs. I noticed that the new one has less metal on the sides and is thinner. ( the mounting flanges) Which would make up for some of the weight loss.















Sorry about the blurry picture.