power steering help needed!!
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power steering help needed!!
i am doing the toyota power steering conversion. my question is what is the easiest and most cost effective way to do the conversion. also i have a tilt GM steering coloumn and i am wanting to know if anybody has used this colomn when they did the swap and if so what would be needed to adapt the colomn to the toyota box and have everything work. thank you.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,188
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From: Burbank, WA
Welcome to the forum. It would be helpful to know what you're working on. You can access your user CP at the left to add your location and truck info in your signature to help us all remember.
There's no real rocket science to add a toyota box. There are mount kits available and they pretty much bolt right on. You'll have to fab up attachments for your GM column and create the linkage to fit. Everyone's build is a little different, so you're going to have to create your own shaft and connections. Check with Borgeson for the correct parts.
There's no real rocket science to add a toyota box. There are mount kits available and they pretty much bolt right on. You'll have to fab up attachments for your GM column and create the linkage to fit. Everyone's build is a little different, so you're going to have to create your own shaft and connections. Check with Borgeson for the correct parts.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Most cost effective way is to buy a used box (be sure to get the hose fittings, especially the return hose to box fitting) and the complete conversion kit from Classic haulers. How long is your column (end of shaft to steering wheel mount)?
Don't buy any extra shaft or connectors until you put it in with your choice of steering wheel and seat/driving position, and see what you actually need, it's likely you'll only need the proper U joint or rag joint with the GM shaft connection on one side and Toyota box input spline on other end. Borgeson makes most any combo you could possibly need. You'll also need a column drop and lower floor inspection hole cover plate and column mount (buy or make) to fit your column.
Don't buy any extra shaft or connectors until you put it in with your choice of steering wheel and seat/driving position, and see what you actually need, it's likely you'll only need the proper U joint or rag joint with the GM shaft connection on one side and Toyota box input spline on other end. Borgeson makes most any combo you could possibly need. You'll also need a column drop and lower floor inspection hole cover plate and column mount (buy or make) to fit your column.
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My colomn length is 32 and it is a DD connector on the end. The factory column to the box is 40 or longer I believe. I'm not sure if the box moves when I put the Toyota one in or if the column connection is in the same place. I can get a DD rod that is 6 inches long and have a u joint on both ends to tie it all together. I'm trying to have everything I need before I start seeing we have about 12 projects at our shop so it needs to be in and out.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
I'm not 100% sure on the F1s, but on my 56 I connected my Ididit 32" column to the Toyota box using nothing but a U joint. I highly doubt you'll be able to fit a 6" shaft extension (or any shaft extension) in there unless you want to steer from the bed. 
Depending on the dish of the steering wheel used and the preferred driving position the column may even need some shortening for the tight F1 cab.
The Toyota box is close to the same general location and size as the stock box (general in that the OEM column shaft is integral with the box) or a little (1-2") closer to the firewall.
Depending on the dish of the steering wheel used and the preferred driving position the column may even need some shortening for the tight F1 cab.The Toyota box is close to the same general location and size as the stock box (general in that the OEM column shaft is integral with the box) or a little (1-2") closer to the firewall.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
If this is a paying job, I'd suggest using the CPP newly manufactured Isuzu design PS box that bolts in without an adapter mount. Classic Haulers also sell the same kit.
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Laughing Gas
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A pc of 6 inch 1' double D fully machined can always be cut, good insurance for the unforseen, 10 bucks, can be absorbed into the cost of the job or charged without any large problems.
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New User
Joined: Nov 2014
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This truck is my personal. But I still need it in and out. The shaft is cheap but the u joints are expensive. What is the spine on the box? I have a u joint at the shop and I wanna know if it'll work. I bought it when I planned to clip the truck
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
I'll guarantee you won't need or be able to fit in an extension, as I said it's more likely the column will need shortening unless using a very shallow dish steering wheel and no mounting adapter.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 64
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From: Shelton, WA
I installed the Toyota power steering box in my 49 F1 a couple of months ago. Bought the steering kit from Classic Haulers. Modified the 1" thick bracket by cutting long angled end off and welding it back on at 90 degrees to center plate. Mid 50 has a hose kit that will connect to Toyota box metric end and my Chevy p/s pump. As mentioned in another thread somewhere, I cut a piece of pvc pipe that fit over the pitman splined shaft that will act as a spacer between frame and pitman arm nut. When installed and nut is snugged up, it will hold the assembly in place while you align box to steering column and then mark frame for mounting fastener holes. I have 4 pictures in my picture album that show bracket, bracket bolted to pump and assembly installed in truck.
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