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Before you had the alternator tested and replaced it, I was wondering about the outside chance of the glow plug relay contacts being stuck in the closed position. Not very likely but worth checking since something is sure going on.
Also, are you sure the Odyssey batteries are getting a full charge? It takes awhile. Can you get ahold of a good quality automatic battery charger and charge them overnight, or until the charger says they're at 100%.
Also again, you have some great batteries and there's a reason some guys buy $300+ alternators and starters to match the battery quality. I'm concerned that your $100 alternator is going to burn up again trying to provide the current that two discharged Odyssey batteries are asking for.
Hope I'm wrong about that and your new starter permanently solves the problems.
Bob
Bob is 100% right on this. I went to a class put on by NAPA on starters and alternators. The guy teaching that class said to always charge the batteries with a battery charger if possible, not with the alternator. If you read the instructions that come with the new/rebuilt alternators, they say to have the batteries fully charged, for best alternator life.
Man you're lucky the jeep can even jump the truck! It takes my buddies 6.9(both batteries) and my car just to get my truck jumped. That's with new batteries and cables too.
I'm betting faulty wiring. Probably only running off one battery. No way it could drain two that fast.
Definitely have both batteries fully charged. Autozone will do it free. Takes a few hours.
Alternator isn't made to charge your batteries, only run other electrics while running.
When you put a load on a battery (starting) voltage drops, but it will climb back up in time.
(Though technically a alternator will charge a slightly discharged battery, it's not good for it)
^^^^^ Possibility; isolated load test of both batteries after all this cranking would shed some light. If one is discharged a lot more than the other, then either that's a bogey battery or the wiring / connections are bad. Next test would be to switch places between the two batteries, recharge, repeat, and load test again. If the same actual battery comes up weak, it's the battery. If it's the other battery, in the same position, that's week, then it's the wiring to that position.
And just because a connection is tight, doesn't mean it's a good connection.
I took a voltmeter and went from the battery post to the lead and read the voltages. I had a voltage drop once I got to the post. It was the positive on the passenger battery. So I was starting off the drivers battery.
I originally noticed it because sometimes I would get that loose connection click like on a single battery vehicle. The drivers side ground was causing it, but if the passenger side connection was good, i would've never noticed it.
Can also use a ohm meter and read the resistance between the cable ends. Which should give you enough to know if the cables are bad.
And btw, I've been told orielly carries the factory style positive cable. From starter to both batteries. Just over $100.
79Jasper, I've never seen the cable in O'rielly's. It's apparently a factory order item, and it was much more than 100$. I asked, a couple times before I ended up just making my own cables.
Can't really expect anyone at a parts store to know what they're talking about. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOT0/WC9316/03318.oap?year=1995&make=Ford&model=F-350&vi=5007033&ck=Search_03318_5007033_751&pt=0331 8&ppt=C0005
part number WC9316
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