Cranked over, no start. Now nothing...
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 369
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From: Colorado Mountain Country
Cranked over, no start. Now nothing...
Howdy all. I've been fighting a hard start issue since Jan. The dealership said the GP's tested fine. Anywho even in June, she just doesn't like to start. Sometimes I cheat and plug it in for an hour or two and it fires up. Gotta solve this problem too, but more importantly....
Regardless of that, this afternoon I jumped in the truck, cranked on it for 15-20 seconds, twice. No start, normal greyish smoke. The third time, cycled the plugs again, turned the key, nothing. No click, just nothing.
Starter shot? Did I burn it up? I'm guessing here. Any other ideas?
If so, which DB starter to get? Regular or HD?
Thanks in advance for the much needed help everyone!
Regardless of that, this afternoon I jumped in the truck, cranked on it for 15-20 seconds, twice. No start, normal greyish smoke. The third time, cycled the plugs again, turned the key, nothing. No click, just nothing.
Starter shot? Did I burn it up? I'm guessing here. Any other ideas?
If so, which DB starter to get? Regular or HD?
Thanks in advance for the much needed help everyone!
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 369
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From: Colorado Mountain Country
Batteries are just about a year old, and all the connections seem to be solid. Is there an outside chance a sudden bad cell could cause this issue? Just something else that popped into my head....
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
I'd agree with checking the batteries & connections first. I've got the regular DB and it spins MUCH faster than the old stock starter did. The HT would just be even more than that.
How old is the oil and is it full? Shouldn't have to plug the truck in in June.
How old is the oil and is it full? Shouldn't have to plug the truck in in June.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Colorado Mountain Country
OK gents, so I put the batteries on a charger last night. Checked voltage before and after, no change. Left battery reads 12.79v & right battery reads 12.82v. All seems well there. All connections are clean and tight.
Oil level is good. Getting close to change time, only 4700 miles in this batch.
Pulled codes, normal chipped codes if I'm not mistaken.
P1249 Wastegate Performance.
P0478 EPV High
P1282 ICP High
P0541 IAH (I don't have one any more)
Just to check batteries, and give some extra uuumpfh... I hooked a third battery in parallel and turned the key, still nothing.
Welcome any other input here. I'm leaning toward the starter still, because it did crank twice for 20 seconds before suddenly not cranking an the third try. I ordered a DB HT starter hoping I see it by weeks end.
Question about GPR 109 vs. GPR 110 from Napa.... $36 for 109 & $97 for 110. What gives? Are they not the same? Gotta fix this GPR or GP problem, because my suspicion is that the long cranking hard starts cost me a starter.
Thanks again for the input everyone.
Oil level is good. Getting close to change time, only 4700 miles in this batch.
Pulled codes, normal chipped codes if I'm not mistaken.
P1249 Wastegate Performance.
P0478 EPV High
P1282 ICP High
P0541 IAH (I don't have one any more)
Just to check batteries, and give some extra uuumpfh... I hooked a third battery in parallel and turned the key, still nothing.
Welcome any other input here. I'm leaning toward the starter still, because it did crank twice for 20 seconds before suddenly not cranking an the third try. I ordered a DB HT starter hoping I see it by weeks end.
Question about GPR 109 vs. GPR 110 from Napa.... $36 for 109 & $97 for 110. What gives? Are they not the same? Gotta fix this GPR or GP problem, because my suspicion is that the long cranking hard starts cost me a starter.
Thanks again for the input everyone.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
Likes: 6
From: Ardenvoir, Washington
Check all your fuses.? Fuel heater fuse might be bad.. Also I would check the fuel in the filter housing.. remove the lid.
Also check the fuel pump reset button on the passenger side kick panel..
Also might check the HPOP oil level.. should be about 3/4" from the top..
Also check the fuel pump reset button on the passenger side kick panel..
Also might check the HPOP oil level.. should be about 3/4" from the top..
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Gone Fishin for Mark
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 2
From: West of Houston
Due to the fact that our batteries are connected in parallel, the voltage reading should be the exact same at both.
When you turn the key and you say it does 'nothing', is that in fact what happens? No buzzing, no clicking, no lights dimming, no chimes chiming no nada? If absolutely nothing is happening, I suspect that no signal is getting to the starter relay.
Have you checked the connections on the starter?
One other thing to remember......when chasing an electrical problem, the term 'check connection' really means take it apart and clean it.
When you turn the key and you say it does 'nothing', is that in fact what happens? No buzzing, no clicking, no lights dimming, no chimes chiming no nada? If absolutely nothing is happening, I suspect that no signal is getting to the starter relay.
Have you checked the connections on the starter?
One other thing to remember......when chasing an electrical problem, the term 'check connection' really means take it apart and clean it.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 369
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From: Colorado Mountain Country
Due to the fact that our batteries are connected in parallel, the voltage reading should be the exact same at both.
When you turn the key and you say it does 'nothing', is that in fact what happens? No buzzing, no clicking, no lights dimming, no chimes chiming no nada? If absolutely nothing is happening, I suspect that no signal is getting to the starter relay.
Have you checked the connections on the starter?
One other thing to remember......when chasing an electrical problem, the term 'check connection' really means take it apart and clean it.
When you turn the key and you say it does 'nothing', is that in fact what happens? No buzzing, no clicking, no lights dimming, no chimes chiming no nada? If absolutely nothing is happening, I suspect that no signal is getting to the starter relay.
Have you checked the connections on the starter?
One other thing to remember......when chasing an electrical problem, the term 'check connection' really means take it apart and clean it.
I should be more specific. When I turn the key to on, the truck does all it's normal pre-start checks and dinging, Wait to start, all that is normal. When I turn the key to start, nothing. No click, no draw down or light dimming, nothing. Does anyone have the fuse or relay numbers I should check?
All connections are clean and tight. From battery to starter. Oil and fuel levels all look good.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 369
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From: Colorado Mountain Country
Guess what I just found. Fuse #113 is blown, and it's a 30amp fuse going to where? The starter. Off to find a few of these weird pink 30amp maxi box fuses. Hoping this is the issue.......
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
Likes: 6
From: Ardenvoir, Washington
Sounds like you don't have the owner's guide.. if not.. here is Ford's Website for downloading all the guides..
GENUINE FORD AND LINCOLN MERCURY PARTS AND SERVICE – GLOVE BOX MANUALS REPLY PAGE – MANUALS NOT FOUND
GENUINE FORD AND LINCOLN MERCURY PARTS AND SERVICE – GLOVE BOX MANUALS REPLY PAGE – MANUALS NOT FOUND
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
I'd check the wires going to the starter solenoid for any signs of chaffing or shorts. That's a strange fuse to blow. I'd be looking for a cause. Hopefully it's a simple (inexpensive) issue and not bad windings in the starter that is causing the blown fuse.
