I just bought 2 brand spankin new Odyssey 65 series batteries for my truck and I try to start it around 8 tries before the batteries are drained too much to start my truck. Trying to start in around 10degree weather as well... What can I do to get my truck to not be so sluggish starting? Can someone recommend a great high performance starter which doesn't give a crap about cold weather? Is changing a starter in an F250 powerstroke fairly straightforward like in other vehicles?

Also just in case it's helpful, when I turn the key to the 'wait to start' position, even though the batteries are fully charged...the needle in the dashboard is hovering way low... around 9V, then when I try to start it, the needle dips below 8 and it's soooo godawful sluggish....all the way until the batteries are drained and it can't start....

I was thinking about buying this one but I figured I would ask here first
Thanks in advance,
Larry

 

I'm betting a new starter will solve your problems. The starters slow down as they age, and you will be shocked at how fast a new stock one will crank. That said, Ive read that the 2 bolt Superduty starter is an upgrade for our trucks. Even though it has only 2 mounting bolt, it bolts right up to ours.

 

The voltmeter is down so low because your glow plugs are drawing power. The glow plugs do not go off when the Wait To Start light does. They can stay on for up to 2 minutes. Are all your glow plugs working? Sounds like you may need a starter, but you also need to wait a little while after the WTS light goes off to start cranking. Next time you go to start it, turn the key on and then just sit there and watch the voltmeter. When you see the needle jump back up close to the middle, then try to start it and see if that helps.

 

What is the CCA rating of the batteries?

You should never need to wait until the GPs completely cycle off before turning the key to START. On a cold day, if the block heater wasn't plugged in (or isn't working), just give it 10-20 seconds after the WTS goes off. Speaking of which, does the block heater work and are you using it?

And yes, the starter is very straight-forward. The top bolt is hard to reach, but with the right combination of sockets, extensions, adapters, you'll be able to get a breaker or ratchet on it from the front of the starter.

 

980 cca rating, my batteries before had 850 cca, yet they both drain equally fast trying to start my beast up. The starter goes really sluggish and acts like it wants to just go back to sleep after it makes a nice meal out of my voltage levels...

I've ordered this for a replacement as I have heard good things about it:
Hopefully this new starter solves the problem...however I have noticed the cable connectors are chewed up really good from excessive jumping I'm betting from the last guy who owned this truck...googling online I can't find a full replacement for the entire battery wiring harness for this 1996 7.3L, any help with that would be appreciated as well!

Also, this is trying to start the truck without that 3 hour block heater wait...you never know when an emergency is going to come up and I would like to know the truck will start no matter what just in case.

 

The removal of the starter is pretty straightforward. There are 3 17mm bolts the top one is a bear. Then there are 2 wires that need to be disconnected. The large one is 17mm and the smaller one is either 8mm or 7 mm. I used a jack to hold the starter when I was getting the 2 bottom bolts started. Time and patience and you will be just fine,

 

NEW PROBLEM! I got brand new odyssey 65 batteries wit 980 CCA yet the voltage gauge in the dash is nearly dead, I jumped my truck and drove it around for a while thinking it would charge the batteries back up and nothing...AS I WAS DRIVING, the voltage needle was staying around 8volts while driving, it's usually in the 'normal' range...but now, it's way below normal,, I replaced this alternator not even 2 months ago, it can't be bad already can it? Please advise guys and I thank you for your expertise!

Also, I jumped BOTH batteries with 2 old spare batteries I have and the needle guage is still hovering around 8-9 ensuring that my truck will inevitably not start but do the sluggish starter turnover deal...really gettin agitated here guys!~ Please help!

Perhaps there is a fuse I need to check? I have no clue...all wires are solidly connected.

MOVED TO HERE: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14875909

 

Have you checked for any corrosion or deterioration on the battery side of the starter relay. And just double check the ground wires on the block. Alternators can fail. Was it a reman

 

You said the battery cables connections are kind of torn up from the PO. Can you see any swelling in the cable covers? Corrosion can get under the plastic cover on the cables, and will kill the juice from the batteries getting to the starter. The battery terminals/cables need to be shinny clean, both ends to where they connect, also to the fender mounted starter relay as Nick said above. To me, it sounds if you have some ratty battery cables, and replacing them will probably cure your troubles. They should be available from any parts house. Or you can make them. All parts to make them are available threw NAPA.

 

No corrosion at all, I shined all connections up like brand new!

Man...I just had an awful experience, I was driving down the road and the voltage went below the red line (below 8V) and the truck just simply died. Took ages for it to jump to start as well... I don't know if a bad alternator will do that but wow what a disaster that was trying to flag down cars to get a jump....and the jump took at least a solid 20 minutes before the truck finally fired up.

I love this truck so much but WOW @ all the electrical component, and starting related grief...I just changed the stinking alternator a couple months ago...perhaps Autozone (yes it was a remanufactured alternator) is to blame for that one...

Is there a way to test the alternator to see if it's bad by myself, I own a multimeter tool if that would help or do I have to take it back to pot heads high school dropouts at Autozone to get it "pretend tested" (I say that because they do sheisty lowbrow crap like that to get you to buy another one) I'm REALLY wanting to buy a brand new high performance one with 200+amps but wow @ that $300 price tag! -- any recommendations from you awesome dudes would be greatly appreciated!)

Also, I'd love to build my own wires to handle more juice from higher performance electrical components like my Odyssey 65 batteries and a higher performance starter (coming in the mail right now) as well as a higher performance alternator. I just want to purchase all the right gear to get this beast to start up without all the headaches ya know? I'm worried my knowledge isn't the greatest, I would literally need a wiring diagram drawn out in crayon to be able to accomplish this feat....Also, if welding or soldering is required...I can't do that sort of thing...I'm just simple trailerfolk I don't have all those cool tools to do some awesome stuff with unfortunately. Just got my basic tools and some good old fashioned elbow grease goin for me.

I desperately want to make this truck solid and tough with the starting/electrical components more than anything!

Another thing I should mention...while driving (after jumped) I slowly watch the voltage needle dwindle down to nothing, then the vehicle simply dies.

Thanks for your time and pointers guys I _REALLY_ appreciate it,
Larry

 

Yep, I did notice after about 45 seconds the voltage jumped back up a little bit, just enough to get the engine started!

 

When you first turn the key to RUN, does the red charging system failure warning light (battery icon) come on?

 

The red battery icon does appear and stay on along with the ABS light and sometimes randomly the parking brake light.

 

So the battery icon stays on after you start the engine? Check the connections on the alternator. Esp. make sure that the "small wire" connector is on tight. Also, how's the belt tension?

BTW, that's not a "parking brake light". That's a brake FAILURE warning light. Comes on for three reasons, in decreasing order of importance:
* Hydraulic FAILURE - brake fluid leak, loss of hydraulic pressure - Next time you hit the brakes, the pedal will probably go to the floor and the truck won't stop
* Vacuum boost failure - vacuum pump is no longer providing vacuum "power" to the booster - next time you hit the brakes, the pedal effort will be REAL hard; you'll be able to stop, but it will take a STRONG leg.
* Parking brake applied - rear brakes are dragging - next time you let off the go-pedal, the truck will coast sluggishly.
So for the first reason, it's strongly advised NOT to drive the truck when that light comes on, until you've determined the cause.

This does, however, suggest a belt drive issue. Loose belt would cause both the alternator and the vacuum pump not to turn at sufficient speed. This would mean both a lack of battery charge, and a lack of brake boost.

 

Going to check those wires right now, I really hope it's just something loose causing this..., the brake system has an extremely slow leak I know that much from when I had the oil changed last, belt is tight and seems to spin alternator and everything else just fine

That brake light goes right off when I pull on the parking brake lever...light stays off, it's only there when I turn the key to the on position.