so the old saying is true.. " it always looks good on paper".. can not remember how many time when doing a job the construction blueprints showed something one way and it wound up having to be changed as life in the field is different than in the CAD office.

 

Since I have received a few PM's asking how I installed my setup, I figure I will just list the instructions publicly to save people time...

Get...
-12ft of 3/4" hose (cut in half)
-6" of 1" hose (cut it in half)
-two 3/4" to 1" hose adapters
-one 3/4" to 3/4" straight hose adapter
-one 90* 3/4" hose elbow
-hose clamps


I made the aluminum bracket myself, but you can get creative there and use whatever you would like to mount it.

Flip the CCV doghouse around just like you are doing the normal vent-to-atmosphere CCV mod. Use the 90* hose that is already connected to the doghouse and connect it to a length of 3/4" hose (takes about 6ft.) via the 3/4" to 3/4" straight hose adapter. Run the hose up over the brake master cylinder and down the frame. Mount the canister wherever you would like and attach the hose to the IN port. The ports on the canister are 1" so this is where you will need to use the 3" piece of 1" hose adapted to the 3/4" hose coming from the CCV doghouse.

Connect the other 3" piece of 1" hose to the OUT port and adapt it to the remaining 6ft of 3/4" hose. Run this back up to the intake. You will need to connect the 90* 3/4" hose elbow to the intake tube and then connect the 3/4" hose coming from the canister to that.

That should be all there is to do.

 

I remember reading that and I had read else where that when trying to use that type of set up on a diesel with oversized exhaust pipes that there is not enough velocity for it to work correctly. Now that set up works great on gassers that turn alot more rpm's than a diesel and the angled weld in bung is welded at the end of the collector of the exhaust header for max velocity. Also when I say gasser I mean one that runs mostly in higher rpm's not a daily driver. Like you were saying about some things look good on paper and in theory should work but that is not always the case.

Now I am a big fan of ccv mods that keep the crank case pressure at a negative pressure. Running a open ccv you run the risk of the tube getting clogged with mud/ bugs or ice in it and that is when next thing you know you have positive crank case pressure and oil coming out of places it shouldn't. But to each there own.

Here is my home made CCV catch can with drain and plumbed back into intake . I used a clear tube to see if there was any oil getting by and some does get by. When I drain it I get about 2 to 4 oz per 5k depending on how much towing I am doing. I do have plans to make a 2.0 catch can and it will have S.S. scrub pads in it instead of the cooper scrub pads and I am going to add a baffle plate to deflect oil as it leaves the can. But for now I am pleased it helps.

 

Sometimes the simplest things get over studied and made bigger. If it's smoking it's open and if I I could figure out how to post a picture I will show you how I drilled the oil fill cap plasti welded a 90* hose barb fitting in it after marking where it should be with cap tight and ran it to driver side now both sides vented out one long hose to back of flatbed at the end the puke vapors blow about a foot with pretty good force at the rear end.I have a buddy with one hooked to a small chrome pipe and a sticker that says cummins pipe above it 😃 he loved showing me when I would drive my 12valve with 6 inch stacks