PHP Hydra ordered
I just placed an order for a PHP Hydra switch-on-the-fly 17-position performance chip, with the optional USB programming cable, for my 7.3L PSD Ford Excursion: Power Hungry Performance - Hydra Chip
My X is relatively stock performance-wise, with 6637 intake, 3.5" downpipe, 5" exhaust, no cat (as equipped), and EGT, boost & trans gauges, so I should be able to use all their stock calibrations.
Once the PHP Hydra has arrived & been installed, I'll be interested to see how much the available stock calibrations are able to wake the old gal up, and also whether I am able to realize any MPG gains, if I can keep my foot off the loud pedal, once the initial excitement subsides (as if).
I submitted the following questions/comments with my order:
1. Hydra page states "Fully compatible with PATS-equipped vehicles".
However, when I loaded HydraFlash to check it out, when I selected AXD1 ('00 Excursion 7.3L PSD), the calibration notes state:
"This program will disable the PATS system on the vehicle. To eliminate the "THEFT" light, you must disconnect the red connector from the PATS module. The PATS module is located below the dash directly above the transmission hump in the floor. For further information, please contact your vendor."
But HydraFlash does let me toggle back & forth between red "PATS *NOT* Supported" & green "PATS Supported" in the status bar at the bottom.
So, which is it? Is PATS supported for my AXD1 '00 Excursion 7.3L PSD with Hydra installed or not?
Also, is the PATS module for Excursions also located below the dash directly above the transmission hump in the floor? For some reason I thought the PATS module for Excursions was under the driver's seat?
2. Has any RF testing been done? I don't currently run any HIDs, but I do have a high output 110W VHF radio that I use for chase / support duties at offroad races, like the Baja 1000. Is transmitting at 110W from my VHF radio while the truck is moving likely to cause the Hydra to malfunction or the truck to cut out? (Some users have reported problems with their truck cutting out with a DP Tuner module, when users also have HIDs installed).
3. My Excursion is an '00 model (I believe mid/June '00 build date, IIRC). Does that mean I definitely have forged rods? Or do I need to try and get someone to look in the inspection hole to find out?
4. I would also favor a program display with green LEDs, so it blends with the stock dash illumination more seamlessly.
Will report back once installed & I have findings or opinions to report.
if push comes to shove... you could always build a fharaday cage around your pcm...
1. Hydra page states "Fully compatible with PATS-equipped vehicles".
However, when I loaded HydraFlash to check it out, when I selected AXD1 ('00 Excursion 7.3L PSD), the calibration notes state:
"This program will disable the PATS system on the vehicle. To eliminate the "THEFT" light, you must disconnect the red connector from the PATS module. The PATS module is located below the dash directly above the transmission hump in the floor. For further information, please contact your vendor."
But HydraFlash does let me toggle back & forth between red "PATS *NOT* Supported" & green "PATS Supported" in the status bar at the bottom.
So, which is it? Is PATS supported for my AXD1 '00 Excursion 7.3L PSD with Hydra installed or not?
But then again, it was the pre-Hydra beta chip (before it was even called the Hydra); nope, it's not visible in the sunlight.I answered your questions here since you will not receive a response to the questions on the order.
Above the accelerator pedal. You won't have to disable it though.
No worries. I have been using one on trucks equipped with 2-way radios and high-intensity strobe lights. I even purposely ran the switch wire zip-tied to the radio power and antenna wires. This chip was specifically designed to not have interference issues. Basically, all of the switching is handled on the chip instead of the switch itself. The ribbon cable is nothing more than an output of the chip for display purposes.
If it really matters to you, you should check. It could be either. I've seen six now that are exactly opposite of what they should be per the S/N and year break points. In all honesty, I wouldn't worry about it though. Whether they are powdered metal or not, what would you do about it? I'm not being mean here, just making a point. A total teardown is involved to change the connecting rods and very few people (short of those who are competing in some arena) are willing to go through the work, time, and expense of rebuilding a perfectly fine engine. As an aside, I'm currently doing an engine R&R due to low compression....it started with powdered metal connecting rods but the "new" engine has forged ones so there will be another early-build '01 with forged rods running around. Although the new engine's serial number coincides with the breakpoints of having forged rods so it's not really a fair comparison.
Red LEDs were chosen due to visibility issues during the day in the sunlight. At the time of development, green 7-segment displays were unavailable that were intense enough. Mine has green LEDs....
But then again, it was the pre-Hydra beta chip (before it was even called the Hydra); nope, it's not visible in the sunlight.I answered your questions here since you will not receive a response to the questions on the order.
Many thanks for taking the time to respond to my questions.
Good to hear that PATS is supported, as well as that running a high power VHF radio is unlikely to present an issue & that steps were taken in the design process to minimize potential interference issues. I had read somewhere before ordering that the PHP Hydra was specifically designed to not have interference issues & was one of the key reasons, among others, that I elected to go with the PHP Hydra. Also, now that you mention the readability issue in bright sunlight, it makes sense why red LEDs were chosen. If it turns out that bright enough green LEDs are now available, I may consider upgrading, but the priority at the moment will simply be to get the PHP Hydra installed.
I will likely to get someone to look in the inspection hole to try & figure out if I have forged rods or PMRs, if I can't figure it out myself. Why do I care? After all, as you suggest, it's not likely to be cost effective to do a complete tear down or rebuild, if it turns out I do have PMRs. However, at some stage in the future, I would like to upgrade my turbo & injectors to a GTP38R & hybrids (most likely FF 250/100s), and depending on whether I have PMRs or forged rods may depend how aggressive I'm willing to go on tunes. However, that's further down the road & I'd likely want to get a JW built trans installed by that point as well (or at least money set aside for one). So, if it turns out I have forged rods, that would give me a little more piece of mind as far as reliability in close to stock form, at the present time, as well as potential upgradability for the future, though as with anything mechanical, failures are always a possibility at any time, so nothing is a guarantee.
Anyway, for anyone else interested, my order was fulfilled on 1/15 & shipped on 1/16. The slight delay was likely caused by the questions I submitted with my order, and Angela did call & leave a message saying that she'd try & get Bill to answer my questions, but Cody has now done so here. My PHP Hydra arrived yesterday, & I picked up today. I'm pretty busy working long hours at the moment, so I'm not sure exactly when I'll get a chance to do the install, but hopefully soon, and I'll report back when I've done so.
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Installed Saturday morning.
- Check engine light came on the very first time I started the truck with the chip in place.
- I drove it for 5 miles in local traffic in 65 Daily Tune mode, and the light stayed on the entire time. Transmission shifted poorly "in this tune". I had abrupt shifts at part throttle and after 2nd-3rd shift at moderate throttle, RPMs drop down to idle and truck comes in and out of gear and then engine lugs. Yes engine is much more lively.
- Turned truck off, let it sit 4 hours, started again, no check engine light. Drove it 4-5 miles in 65hp daily tune. Transmission shifted poorly in this same tune. Same shifting symptoms as noted above.
- Turned off truck, say overnight but engine heater plugged in, drove it 12 miles, no check engine light, still shifting poorly in 65 Daily Tune.
- Turned off, sat 2 hours, drive her again 12 miles...check engine light on again at startup. Shifting poorly in 65 hp daily tune. At one point I try to toggle between tunes while at a stop light...no response. Refuses to come out of setting #2. Wait a few minutes....am able change to 80hp daily tune. Drive her softly, no WOT, just light throttle...shifting is perfect at local roadway speeds. Check engine light is nonetheless on for entire 12 miles.
I call PHP and speak to Shawn. He says the transmission needs time to adjust. He of course asks me to get the codes and call him back. I don't have a scan tool so I will do so at local store.
Off to a precarious start. I hope this works out.
BTW, 80 daily tune HP tune at 3/4 throttle causes filter minder light to come one....clearly the stock box with clean OEM filter cannot pass the required air.







