leveling out my 2wd
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,333
Likes: 1
From: St. Louis, Mo.
There are coil spring spacers- I think you can get 2 or 3" thick. I put the 2" on mine several years ago. Ill look for a name. Check ebay - do a search for coil spring spacers. Thats where I bought mine originally but cant remember the guys name. Prothane makes them
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 506
Likes: 5
From: South Florida
Daystar makes them or you can go the eBay route. There are numerous vendors. I would go 2 1/2" no less. Other option is get new longer springs. Also, get ready to install the moogs adjustable camber/caster pills as you need them for alignment.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,333
Likes: 1
From: St. Louis, Mo.
Same here Pete - Forgot about that - I made a shim from some 1/4" alum. stock I had. As stated above also alignment to follow. Sure sits better afterwards IMHO
Molon Labe
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,272
Likes: 1
From: Alaska
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
I started with an immediate drive line vibration at 45-68 mph, and it would go away immediately upon deceleration within that range of speeds. The u-joints were fine, but there was a decent amount of play in the center support bearing. Evidently, there was little enough play such that it did not show up with the stock front end geometry, but it did show up right away once the front end was lifted a little. New bearing by itself improved the situation, but it did not clear up 100% until the second 1/8" shim was installed.
Others have commented that they did not see the issue at all, but like I said, if the source was only the worn bearing, the new bearing by itself should have resolved the vibration, but it did not. It took the additional shims for my truck to settle down to "pre-leveled" ride condition. I can only conclude that there are other items which can contribute to the vibration issue such as tire size, ball joint condition, actual caster/camber settings, running loaded or empty, type/condition of shocks, condition of rear springs, etc., and therefore some have seen the issue while others have not.
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Molon Labe
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,272
Likes: 1
From: Alaska
I started with an immediate drive line vibration at 45-68 mph, and it would go away immediately upon deceleration within that range of speeds. The u-joints were fine, but there was a decent amount of play in the center support bearing. Evidently, there was little enough play such that it did not show up with the stock front end geometry, but it did show up right away once the front end was lifted a little. New bearing by itself improved the situation, but it did not clear up 100% until the second 1/8" shim was installed.
Others have commented that they did not see the issue at all, but like I said, if the source was only the worn bearing, the new bearing by itself should have resolved the vibration, but it did not. It took the additional shims for my truck to settle down to "pre-leveled" ride condition. I can only conclude that there are other items which can contribute to the vibration issue such as tire size, ball joint condition, actual caster/camber settings, running loaded or empty, type/condition of shocks, condition of rear springs, etc., and therefore some have seen the issue while others have not.
Others have commented that they did not see the issue at all, but like I said, if the source was only the worn bearing, the new bearing by itself should have resolved the vibration, but it did not. It took the additional shims for my truck to settle down to "pre-leveled" ride condition. I can only conclude that there are other items which can contribute to the vibration issue such as tire size, ball joint condition, actual caster/camber settings, running loaded or empty, type/condition of shocks, condition of rear springs, etc., and therefore some have seen the issue while others have not.
I have a vibration at around 75mph, that I can't put a finger on.
I can't say it started after the leveling kit, but It wasn't always there.
Maybe I'll try a shim and see if it goes away
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Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
That might just be it for you. I believe that Ford sells the shim in packs of 3, and they are not expensive and are pre-drilled with the two required bolt holes. Alternatively, several short pieces of 1/8" aluminum/steel flat bar would also work, but it needs to be about 1-1/2" or 2" wide IIRC. I was fortunate that another FTE brother nearby had a spare set and he just sent them to me.
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