Does the red wire go to the battery? If so (the color says it should, but we know how reliable that can be when someone has fooled with the wiring without knowing what they are doing, but think they do), does it have an in-line fuse? Typically, this fuse is rated for 50-60 amps. Alternatively, the stock wiring had a fusible link that connected the battery to the fuse box. If this blew sometime in the past (considering what you are describing, a safe bet that it did) it may have been replaced with an in-line fused wire or even no fuse at all.

 

Not an authority, it would seem the link between the headlight bulbs and the instrument lights, and other components, is the ignition switch; since not the original, suggest check to insure wires are connected correctly to the back side of the ignition switch.

 

That is not quite right. The headlights and running lights should all be able to be turned on whether the ignition is on or not.

The headlights and running lights (and instrument cluster lights and brake lights) all are fused in the fuse panel but they should always be able to be used whether the truck is turned on or not. The things that go through the accessory circuit from the ignition switch (heater, wipers, radio) are what are affected by the ignition switch.

 

Well took everything apart today... Stripped all the tape.. Soaked rag in lacquer thinner wiped everything down... Took out about 7 wires that were cut and still in the harness... Found no issues... Setup more grounds.. And lost everything... No headlights no flashers...I was getting frustrated and about to give up and rip the harness and start from new..When I looked at the above posts and saw the last schematics showed a black and orange wire on the A terminal...Well I did notice that there was a leg for a wire on the switch in that terminal but no wire so thought it was a manufactures option.. ( didn't think it was used in my application).... Well went back out to the garage.. Made a wire with a spade terminal at the end.. Slipped it in the hole ran 12 volts to it And guess what...I have headlights , 4ways and everything works as it should...

I don't believe there was ever a wire on that terminal ( since I brought it) but I can tell you the headlights did work and so did the turn signals they werent as bright ...I really can't explain it..

Tomorrow I will be taping all the wires once again neatly under the dash... Not looking forward to that at all..

I want to thank all you guys that took the time to help....

 

Great night... I also figure out why the truck wasn't charging...I removed the broken amp meter.. And just left he wires there while I ordered new gauges...no amp meter no charge... Never knew that;

 

If you replace it with an inductive amp meter (or better yet, a voltmeter which gives you a better idea of what your electrical system is doing), you won't have that happen again!

Glad you found the problem!

 

Sounds like you did the right thing pulling it out and looking at it. I pretty much build every harness for every vehicle from scratch or modify it as needed for what I plan. But when you get a new truck and there is any indication of PO hacking, I always pull it all and redo it. The hours it takes to trace things in the vehicle doesn't return any improved wiring in the end. Spend the half-hour it takes to pull it all, peel back the harness tape (would recommend tracking down real harness tape as opposed to electrical tape - save yourself, or some future owner, a sticky mess in the future), clean it all up, fix what needs fixing, and rewrap it all.

And yeah - the ammeter wire will either go through a loop on the back of the gauge and remain intact, or it will go though the meter itself. Remove the meter - you need to connect the two wires together.

Headlight switches carry a lot of current through the contacts. I've converted all my early cars to use relays for the headlights. Pretty simple to do, but the basic intent is to use the juice normally going to the headlights to instead trigger a relay, which is then going directly to the battery (fused) and this takes the load off the switches and also increases the headlight brightness. It's grown popular enough that you can but kits on eBay for less than $20 to get wires, relays, and fuses. Almost plug-n-play except for the battery end.

 

What Mark said^^

 

Glad you got it figured out! Wiring can be a pain in the butt for sure.

 

All very good info and ideas. What I have often done is use the split plastic wiring looms and wrap them in electrical friction tape (cloth tape), with wire ties about every 12" on the loom and under the tape (or over the tape if you use the mounting loop style; I use rubber lined metal clamps). Instead of crimp connectors, I buy factory style multi-prong plugs. Everything looks a lot cleaner that way. I use relays for headlights, aux lights, horns and electric fuel pumps. I have wired up hundreds of motorcycles and trucks and I have never used electric tape.

 

Hmmm
Double Oh 7
$20 - you got a link to that 'plug & play' Headlight Kit...?

 

Ok..guys been thinking..I should probably put a inline fuse on the wire running from battery to headlight switch.. I ran stranded 14 gauge.... What size fuse? The gauge should require 15amp fuse but is it different in automotive.. 12volt systems??

Also does the headlight switch have its own short circuit protector??

 

If the wire runs straight from the battery to the headlight switch it needs a fuse. 15A for 14ga., but that seems a little small. 12ga. 20A would be better.

The headlight switch does not have its own circuit protection.