4wd auto locking function. Twilight zone?
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,263
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From: Houston, TX
Thanks y'all for the prompt responses. I can engage 4wd high just fine but only from a dead stop. Weird. I know. I'm onto the idea of something upstream. Down stream seems fine.
I haven't changed the vacuum pump yet. I changed the pulse hub solenoid. I changed the main vacuum line. I changed the connector line between the main vacuum line and the pump, tank and solenoid.
Pump seems to run fine. It takes about 1 min or so to fill the vacuum reservoir tank from empty. KOEO. Would it be the pump being weak? Possible.
So when I switch to 4wd on the fly, is the vacuum pump sending the vacuum to the hubs? If so, then I may have a weak pump then.
Could it be the axle vent hose? I've read somewhere tat if the vent hose is clogged, it may throw tat defrost condition as well.
Thanks guys. This is baffling me.
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I haven't changed the vacuum pump yet. I changed the pulse hub solenoid. I changed the main vacuum line. I changed the connector line between the main vacuum line and the pump, tank and solenoid.
Pump seems to run fine. It takes about 1 min or so to fill the vacuum reservoir tank from empty. KOEO. Would it be the pump being weak? Possible.
So when I switch to 4wd on the fly, is the vacuum pump sending the vacuum to the hubs? If so, then I may have a weak pump then.
Could it be the axle vent hose? I've read somewhere tat if the vent hose is clogged, it may throw tat defrost condition as well.
Thanks guys. This is baffling me.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Houston, TX
Could the blend door actuator also play a part in this 4wd fiasco? But then again, my ac and heating works like it should.
Thanks.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
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From: BC Canada
Defrost is the default on the HVAC control when no vacuum to hold at other settings. I am with Watson, I think your pump is on the way out or a leak at the tank ect. I have a new pump amd lines, amd re did the hub lube. Be very careful to have those o rings properly lubed and use a fresh seal on the outside end. My 05 clearly engages better when moving, always has. Slower speeds sometime doesn't work as well. Colder temps also cause issues, it's to do with how hard it is for the vacuum to turn the locking in the hub when the lube turns to goo.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Houston, TX
Ron mentions the reservoir should vacuum in about 30 seconds. 1 minute is weak pump. Video Link: http://youtu.be/85brOL9KTDU?list=UU6s_EctGCrqClSIThpSicJw Josh
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Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Houston, TX
Defrost is the default on the HVAC control when no vacuum to hold at other settings. I am with Watson, I think your pump is on the way out or a leak at the tank ect. I have a new pump amd lines, amd re did the hub lube. Be very careful to have those o rings properly lubed and use a fresh seal on the outside end. My 05 clearly engages better when moving, always has. Slower speeds sometime doesn't work as well. Colder temps also cause issues, it's to do with how hard it is for the vacuum to turn the locking in the hub when the lube turns to goo.
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Postmaster
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From: Houston, TX
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
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From: BC Canada
Yes, I have an FRDX aux input which is a direct input I use for sat radio and iPod, phone for tunes. It's direct digital so it sounds wayyyyyyy better.
Good point above on the solenoid, mine was fine, but the pump didn't suck hard enough. Also, there is a small set of lines that can crack, and loose vacuum to the solenoid as well, it's short and cheaper than the long one to both wheel hubs. If you time the pump till it shuts off with each line plugged, you can trouble shoot the leak by looking at the time it takes to come to full vacuum.
Good point above on the solenoid, mine was fine, but the pump didn't suck hard enough. Also, there is a small set of lines that can crack, and loose vacuum to the solenoid as well, it's short and cheaper than the long one to both wheel hubs. If you time the pump till it shuts off with each line plugged, you can trouble shoot the leak by looking at the time it takes to come to full vacuum.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Houston, TX
Yes, I have an FRDX aux input which is a direct input I use for sat radio and iPod, phone for tunes. It's direct digital so it sounds wayyyyyyy better. Good point above on the solenoid, mine was fine, but the pump didn't suck hard enough. Also, there is a small set of lines that can crack, and loose vacuum to the solenoid as well, it's short and cheaper than the long one to both wheel hubs. If you time the pump till it shuts off with each line plugged, you can trouble shoot the leak by looking at the time it takes to come to full vacuum.
I wanted a direct iPod adapter to the stereo but the 05s are the red headed stepchild of ford. They make adapter interface for 03 to 07, except the 05. Damn.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
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From: Spanaway
Dom,
That adaptor might work still.
You other option is get an 06 stereo and swap them. The stereo head unit
needs to have the AUX button. What you get with the PIE adaptor is a right
and left input line to plug into.
This should do the trick for the 05
Ford auxiliary input converter interface adapters aux cable jack mp3
Sean
EDIT : Dom have a look at this one I think it will do what you want.
Ford PIE FRD04-AUX Auxiliary input Adapter radios with AUX
That adaptor might work still.
You other option is get an 06 stereo and swap them. The stereo head unit
needs to have the AUX button. What you get with the PIE adaptor is a right
and left input line to plug into.
This should do the trick for the 05
Ford auxiliary input converter interface adapters aux cable jack mp3
Sean
EDIT : Dom have a look at this one I think it will do what you want.
Ford PIE FRD04-AUX Auxiliary input Adapter radios with AUX
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
My truck is an 2005 too. They make one if you have the right stereo, does your stereo have an aux button on the left side? If it does, I got the adaptor you need. I got my original one from Crutchfield, I did replace about two years ago, it stopped working properly, but it was about 6 years past warranty by then, so I got another. What yahoo says but you don't have to have a non 2005, it just needs the aux button. Mine is a six disc stacker, am, fm, and has the aux button. If you don't, you would need to upgrade to the higher end model, but, it wouldn't be worth it, a double din JVC, Kenwood or what have you would get you the digital/digital input.
New User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Elma NY
I have a 2012 F250 auto/lock hubs, When in auto it doesn't seem to engage 4w drive. I put it in N at a dead stop, dash tells me it engaged , Front wheels don't get me out of snowbank when rear wheels are spinning ? Do I need to get up to a 3-5 mph speed for auto hubs to kick in or engage ? Most of the time I am just trying to push snow, not fast. Now the reason I ask is because If I Lock the hubs in lock and turn **** on dash to 4w high, or low, Everything on dash tells me same thing, but I know it engaged from the power of push force. Any comments please, The next is can I leave the Hubs locked in lock 24/7 w/o harming anything other then bad mpg, The truck only has 24k mi. So I need some help Please.