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The front wheels need to rotate in order to lock. The hub may not be aligned to the axle, why it needs to turn just a small amount, that is if everything else works as it should.
Running in 4 hi will eat fuel, it will wear the bearings and seals but shouldn't hurt anything unless it's failing already.
I have tried to switch on the fly w/hubs in auto, and it doesn't kick in, but whit hubs in lock setting it works, So I will have to find someone to see If it is vacuum lines or more. Thanks for your Help, WatsonR
Dom,
That adaptor might work still.
You other option is get an 06 stereo and swap them. The stereo head unit
needs to have the AUX button. What you get with the PIE adaptor is a right
and left input line to plug into.
thanks Sean. sorry for the late reply. me and the wife got away from civilization for a bit. we were at the texas renaissance festival campgrounds over the weekend and i took the company car out to campgrounds. 2013 ford escape.
My truck is an 2005 too. They make one if you have the right stereo, does your stereo have an aux button on the left side? If it does, I got the adaptor you need. I got my original one from Crutchfield, I did replace about two years ago, it stopped working properly, but it was about 6 years past warranty by then, so I got another. What yahoo says but you don't have to have a non 2005, it just needs the aux button. Mine is a six disc stacker, am, fm, and has the aux button. If you don't, you would need to upgrade to the higher end model, but, it wouldn't be worth it, a double din JVC, Kenwood or what have you would get you the digital/digital input.
just checked. my aux button is on the right. dammit.
replaced vacuum pump with new one. haven't tested it yet. hesitant on taking it for test drive. probable sometime during the week. i'll post updates. lol.
on another note, the iPod adapter setup i'm looking for is a true direct digital setup. like my wife's suburban. i plug into the the 30 pin iPod adapter and i can control the iPod from the stereo and it charges my iPod at the same tie. all thru 1 cable. would love it if they made one like that.
Here's another scenario that just happened. Right after dinner. Heading home. I accelerated to about 35 to 40mph. Engaged the switch. It engaged 4wd. Felt a thud under the seat. Tats the transfer case engaging. AC still blowing out front. Wow. Did a complete turn and felt the kicking out on the steering wheel. 4wd still engaged. Dropping speed to about 20 mph. Switched back to 2wd. Ac stopped blowing front but for about 10 seconds or so. Damn.
you've got a small leak somewhere. Plug the hose at the wheel well and put a vacuum on the line near the tank using a hand held pump with a gauge to watch the pressure. If it bleeds down slow, replace the line. Test both sides of the hub vacuum line and then the heater controls if needed.
you've got a small leak somewhere. Plug the hose at the wheel well and put a vacuum on the line near the tank using a hand held pump with a gauge to watch the pressure. If it bleeds down slow, replace the line. Test both sides of the hub vacuum line and then the heater controls if needed.
I haven't ventured into the heater controls yet. Not sure how to do it yet. Not even sure how to replace it either. Sorry I'm brain dead lately.
Are any of the hoses leading to the hub... snug or stretched? I'd be willing to bet that you have a small leak somewhere in the system and the pump can keep up with just the heater controls. You then use the 4x4 switch and it can't keep up any longer, switches to defrost.
He has replaced the lines to the hubs, and to the tank from the pump.
One thing might help is that your valve that controls the hubs may not be working.
I just experienced some fun with my ESOF as it was -32 C this weekend and I was getting the heat to defrost when using 4Hi. So I manually locked hubs and still an issue, so I plugged the line to the be hubs and it's working now. To damn cold here so the hubs leak at -32 as the lube on the inner print doesn't seal anymore.
There is a short line from the he tank to the HVAC under hood that can be replaced, I had a leak there once, also inside under glove box, there is a whole section of lines under the dash you can look for leaks under there. One way is to shut the HVAC box off amd turn to floor to see what it tried pls to do.
He has replaced the lines to the hubs, and to the tank from the pump. One thing might help is that your valve that controls the hubs may not be working. I just experienced some fun with my ESOF as it was -32 C this weekend and I was getting the heat to defrost when using 4Hi. So I manually locked hubs and still an issue, so I plugged the line to the be hubs and it's working now. To damn cold here so the hubs leak at -32 as the lube on the inner print doesn't seal anymore. There is a short line from the he tank to the HVAC under hood that can be replaced, I had a leak there once, also inside under glove box, there is a whole section of lines under the dash you can look for leaks under there. One way is to shut the HVAC box off amd turn to floor to see what it tried pls to do.
Yes sir. I just replaced the vent hose to the front axle tonight. The short line to the hvac. Is tat the connector hose tat goes from solenoid to vacuum pump to vacuum tank? Tat was replaced new about a week or so ago.
The whole section of lines under the dash? Under the passenger side glove box. How do I replace tat? Is there a part number for the set of lines? What about the blend door actuator? Would tat be a problem too?