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diesel wont start

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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 04:48 PM
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diesel wont start

hi . I was hopeing someone could help me out. I have a 1992 7.3l non turbo f250. k heres the problem. when I start the truck from cold it will start right away for about a second then just die. and to get it going again I have to put ether in the intake. which I know isn't great for the motor but its the only way I can get it to go after. and once it is running it runs strong and idles good so I don't think there is air in the lines. I have a feeling its the lift pump but I don't know how to check it as it is mechanical. also put it on the computer and the computer is saying throttle postion (TP) sensor signal out of range and fuel injector pump lever sensor input is out of self test.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 07:24 PM
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tecgod13
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You have air intrusion problems.
It may be caused by the lift pump, but a more common issue is leaking return lines. There is enough fuel left in the injection pump to get the engine to fire off, but air leaks into the return system and gathers at the fuel filter (high point of the system) and then causes the truck to stall out after a second.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 07:35 PM
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thank you I will check the returns out again
 
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Old Nov 20, 2014 | 09:24 AM
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I was having the same issue. It would fire right off, die and then require a lot of cranking to get the fuel back up to the IP.

I replaced my return lines etc, but I also installed an electric fuel pump. That way any air intrusion would be irrelevant since the pump primes the system while the WTS light is on.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2014 | 09:38 AM
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Thanks where did you put the pump before the lifter pump?. And does it work every time now
 
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Old Nov 20, 2014 | 09:59 AM
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jayro88
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Originally Posted by jakembraun
Thanks where did you put the pump before the lifter pump?. And does it work every time now
I installed my pump on the frame rail just after the tank selector valve.....but mine is a van so I have a lot less under hood space.

Individuals with trucks usually mount them in the engine compartment since it provides it with a little more protection from road debris.

When you install it you delete the mechanical pump and block off the opening. you end up installing some new fuel line to bypass where the mechanical pump was. The you ire a relayed 12v source for the pump that only receives a signal when the key is turned to the run/start position. The e-pump soley supplies fuel to the engine.

There are a number of good write-ups here on the forum about it. They have step by step instructions as well as recommendations on which pumps to use and not use.

The only issue I ever had was my relay went out. I just jumped the relay to provide power to the pump so I could drive to the store and get a replacement (under warranty). Have had the pump installed for about 30K miles now.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2014 | 10:04 AM
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Thanks I will check some of those forums out .
 
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