So I got this truck from an FTE member that had delt with this issue before and never really fixed it, here's his thread. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...then-dies.html

So as you may have read in my earlier threads this truck and IDIs are new to me. I got it started and running fine yesterday with the aid of a temporary patched in electric pump. It then ran fine and started every time without the electric pump. Today I go to start it and it fires for a second then dies and won't start, crank but no fire. I opened the water drain and heard an air hissing noise and nothing came out even when I open the schraeder valve. So it seams the filter only has air in it.

My guess is that the initial starting is fuel left over in the IP and lines from the IP to injectors and that the system otherwise is full of air from somewhere. That somewhere my guess would be the return system allowing air in and air entering the top of the filter allowing the fuel to drain out back to the tank. Does this make sence? This would mean both that the lift pump is letting fuel drain back and the return system is letting air in, right?

A solution, right now as soon as I'm done with this post I'm off to install that electric pump in a more permanant fashion. I know this doesn't solve the original problem but should help it start reliably and help me find the problem by likely turning it from an air in issue that I can't find into a fuel out issue that I can.

I'm going to install the pump so that it pushes into the lift pump inlet. This is both easiest and includes the lift pump in the system so that if it has a leak I can find it. Also it seams to me that more pump can't hurt.

What say all of you?

 

Does it die once the injection pump gets hot?

My truck is dying right now when it gets hot. With some diagnosing a new lift pump, and fuel filter. I finally figured out its the fuel shutoff solenoid.

If i pour water on top of the ip where the fss is and cool it down. Starts back up and runs fine until the fss heats up again.

Hope this helps.

Sometimes i fss will die and you can't start the truck at all. From what I've read that can happen too.

 

No it doesn't run long enough to get hot, just a second or 2.

 

Check this video out..... might be your problem..... Diesel Fuel Problems 6.9L Ford 1984 - YouTube

 

you, sir, have a classic case of air intrusion. your description of it starting on fuel in the IP then sucking air is perfectly correct. as was talked about in the other thread, thats where return lines are a BIG DEAL, so if you haven't yet replaced the injector return lines, caps, and o-rings, its time to do so. check the other thread for details.
if you have done that and still suffer this air intrusion problem, there are a couple other points on the return line system that are prone to leaking. of these, the most talked about are the "olives". there are 4 connections where steel return lines mate to other fittings, and in each of these is a rubber compression washer called an olive. these eventually wear out just like the o-rings inside the injector caps, but are much more prone to being neglected, as many parts stores don't even list them. as with the good return line kit, member "typefour" has them available, as does just about any local repair shop that specializes in diesels.
another point i've had trouble with on mine is the return fitting that comes off the top-front of the injector pump, that ell fitting always found a way to get loose where it connects to the pump. note that one of the olives is just on the other side of that ell.
another point to check is the sections of rubber hose in the return lines - we all check the ones by the injectors themselves, but many people neglect the rest of the lines going back to the tank. any small leak can put you back into this mess.
one important thing to remember is that most air intrusion problems are caused by failures too small to leak fuel out, but just big enough to leak air in, which then siphons the fuel out of the filter back to the tank.

 

here's the thread on my e-pump install. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...mp-thread.html
some guys gave me the "what for", but i'm happy with it. note that unlike my first post, the relay running the pump is triggered by the high-amperage load side of the GP controller. a wire from there triggers a relay, and thats it.

another note, having just reviewed my thread i linked to, the last post (#8) says that pump lasts forever "unless you run WMO" - well thats exactly the alternative fuel i'm rolling with, so i'm glad i'm spending all but the quick priming on the mechanical pump.

opossum, we should meet up sometime and talk trucks now that you have a "real" engine in one of yours

 

And the winner is O-rings, letting the electric fuel pump run a while showed me a leak. Got fuel coming out between the return coupler thing and the injector on number 3. So, O-rings, time to do the return line thing everyone talks about.

So I see viton O-rings and all that, I see people do the later style return banjos. But what about metal banjos with metal lines, anyone doing that? Seams worth doing to me if I can get my hands on parts.

Of course, let me know when your in my area or close, your a little far out for me, closest I get is Monroe on a race weekend but not to often these days.

 

its best to use the style of caps (you called them banjos) that your truck came with, because the different styles have different size hose, and using the wrong size would cause a leak where the new hose mates to the hard line on the back of the engine.
your local parts store has a return line kit, also called "injector install kit" made by standard. its o-rings aren't viton, they're a more basic type of rubber, but it'll do for now if you don't want to wait around to order one.
thats what i did the first time, then after some months i was leaking again so i bought another kit, changed only the o-rings and saved the rest of the kit, then ordered the viton o-rings from amazon.com
NOTE: if you don't lubricate your new o-rings as you install them, you'll probably damage at least one during the install. i usually use grease, but oil is fine too.

oh, and for parts stores near you, my favorite is highland east in the renton highlands. its mostly older guys working there, and they know their stuff, unlike the chain stores.