Krylon
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
Krylon
<br>
It sure could. You run into 2 different problems.
You paint is only as good as your base. If you have poor attachment to the metal, there is a good chance the paint could seperate from the metal. You can increase your odds by making sure the metal is properly cleaned and roughened.
Non-catalized enamel paint is also very sensitive to a variety of solvents. This has nothing to do with the brand you are using, it's just the nature of the beast. If you don't properly seal the enamel before you recoat, the new paint solvents could soften and lift the old paint.
It sure could. You run into 2 different problems.
You paint is only as good as your base. If you have poor attachment to the metal, there is a good chance the paint could seperate from the metal. You can increase your odds by making sure the metal is properly cleaned and roughened.
Non-catalized enamel paint is also very sensitive to a variety of solvents. This has nothing to do with the brand you are using, it's just the nature of the beast. If you don't properly seal the enamel before you recoat, the new paint solvents could soften and lift the old paint.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Krylon
I was thinking of using it to simply protect the metal until I had the time to blast and triple cout the old girl. Trying to keep away cancer holes.
Last edited by 1979_F100_302; Jul 18, 2003 at 06:07 AM.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
Krylon
<br>
I'll tell you what I did a few years ago on my 86 F250. Although I don't really recommend this, it seemed to work just fine.
I did all my body work and as I completed each section, I covered it up with 3 coats of Zero Rust (ZR). When it came time to paint, the entire truck (including the ZR areas) was sanded and then sealed with epoxy primer. After the epoxy, the rig was shot with a single-stage urethane paint.
ZR is totally waterproof but isn't really designed to be used as I used it. It is a product designed to be used by itself on clean or rusted steel. It can be considered stable after a couple of hours but before topcoating it, the ZR reps recommend a 2 week drying period.
The 86 F250 project was a work-in-progress. I worked on it for about 12 months, about 5-6 years ago. Drove it to work on a daily basis, during this time. I live in the Pacific Northwest and during the winter, I don't think it ever stops raining. I had absolutely no rust problems. I'm still driving that trunk and the paint is like the day I put it on (except of course, for the assorted grandkids bicycle accidents).
I'll tell you what I did a few years ago on my 86 F250. Although I don't really recommend this, it seemed to work just fine.
I did all my body work and as I completed each section, I covered it up with 3 coats of Zero Rust (ZR). When it came time to paint, the entire truck (including the ZR areas) was sanded and then sealed with epoxy primer. After the epoxy, the rig was shot with a single-stage urethane paint.
ZR is totally waterproof but isn't really designed to be used as I used it. It is a product designed to be used by itself on clean or rusted steel. It can be considered stable after a couple of hours but before topcoating it, the ZR reps recommend a 2 week drying period.
The 86 F250 project was a work-in-progress. I worked on it for about 12 months, about 5-6 years ago. Drove it to work on a daily basis, during this time. I live in the Pacific Northwest and during the winter, I don't think it ever stops raining. I had absolutely no rust problems. I'm still driving that trunk and the paint is like the day I put it on (except of course, for the assorted grandkids bicycle accidents).
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