Rear blocks or no blocks?
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2014
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Rear blocks or no blocks?
I am having custom leaf springs built to get rid of my saggy rear end, and I want to know, should I completely get rid of the factory block with the bump stop thing, or keep the factory block? The spring shop I am having do the work recommended getting rid of all blocks all together. What say you?
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2014
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Perfect, good to know and exactly my thoughts.
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2014
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Point taken, however, with my 6 inch lift the bump stops have never been anywhere close to being able to be usable being lifted 6 inches.
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2014
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I can only imagine trying to get my X in the air! Pics or it didn't happen!!!
Logistics Pro
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It was more of an accidental thing the first two times. Unfamiliar roads, just cruising the speed limit. The last one was somewhat intentional, I knew from years back there was a good bump in the road up ahead so I got it up to 60. Little did I know that in the last 9 years since I'd been in town, it had turned into a small mountain. Ever seen spitter levitate out of the cupholder? It's terrifying.
Logistics Pro
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This can also be easily and cheaply remedied with some 4* shims that cost all of $30. I say full spring lift in the rear to eliminate potential wrap, then 4* shims if necessary for vibrations.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Port Coquitlam, BC
I just went to a wrecker and paid $50 rather then getting some shims made. I have not noticed any problems with the blocks and my TT is 10,500 lbs with 1,250 lbs on the ball and I'm boosting to 27 lbs on hill climbs.
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