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I was attempting to remove the PCM from under my dash, near the parking brake late last week (I was trouble-shooting some parking brake issues I'm having). There must be some kind of a connector/screw/bolt that must be released in order for the PCM to come out, but I couldn't find it.
in the engine compartment, there is a bolt in the center of an electrical bulk connector on the driver side firewall, you need to dissconnect that, and then there should be a smaller bolt or 2 (the exact number currenty escapes me). It does go through a rubber grommet thing so it wont fall right out.
There is a video on you tube showing how to do it, search 7.3 PCM removal.
The big screw is a PITA to remove since you have to reach down through the master cylinder/steering shaft area, use a 1/4" drive ratchet. The bolts holding the PCM are obvious inside the cab, once the connector bolt is out and unplugged, PCM slides right out
(I had to do this when working on my parking brake pedal)
Thanks, I'll have a look around YouTube. I searched before, but I'll try again.
By the way...may I ask what exactly was the problem with your parking brake? I'm having fits with mine also. If our problems are the same, perhaps your experience could help me out there as well.
Thanks, I'll have a look around YouTube. I searched before, but I'll try again.
By the way...may I ask what exactly was the problem with your parking brake? I'm having fits with mine also. If our problems are the same, perhaps your experience could help me out there as well.
The video had to do with installing a "performance chip" of something, was more of an installation guide for that chip, but had the benefit of showing how to remove the stock PCM....
My parking brake issue was that the large spring flew out of it and ended up on the floor, and the cable jumped the guides rendering it useless. I had to remove the pedal assembly. I ended up drilling a hole through the two large "gears" and bolting them together, pedal requires more effort and only goes about half way, but at least it now activates the cables, brake works better than it ever did.
Great, thanks for the head's up on which video to look for.
My parking brake sometimes stays down, sometimes does not. And when it doesn't, it sounds like the teeth are maybe out of alignment and, therefore, skipping teeth on the pedal's way back up. I crawled under there, and there's no glaring issue. But I can see that maybe the 2 sets of gears are "sloppy" -- like the center rivet (or whatever holds them together) has become loose over the past 10 years.
Between parts and labor, I'm guessing Ford would want to change me close to 4-digit figures to fix it. I like your idea of drilling holes and bolting them together.
I'm assuming you used some very short bolts when you screwed them together? There doesn't appear to be much horizontal room in the assembly.
Great, thanks for the head's up on which video to look for.
My parking brake sometimes stays down, sometimes does not. And when it doesn't, it sounds like the teeth are maybe out of alignment and, therefore, skipping teeth on the pedal's way back up. I crawled under there, and there's no glaring issue. But I can see that maybe the 2 sets of gears are "sloppy" -- like the center rivet (or whatever holds them together) has become loose over the past 10 years.
Between parts and labor, I'm guessing Ford would want to change me close to 4-digit figures to fix it. I like your idea of drilling holes and bolting them together.
I'm assuming you used some very short bolts when you screwed them together? There doesn't appear to be much horizontal room in the assembly.
You can buy the whole parking brake assembly, but it's pricey, or cheap depending on your cash flow. I didn't want to order it and I was cheap so I just put on 1/4" by 1" bolt in the two gears, you pretty well have to get the brake and cable set correctly , mark, remove pedal assembly and drill. If you don't get ti right you won't have your cable travel right distance to release.
You can buy the whole parking brake assembly, but it's pricey, or cheap depending on your cash flow. I didn't want to order it and I was cheap so I just put on 1/4" by 1" bolt in the two gears, you pretty well have to get the brake and cable set correctly , mark, remove pedal assembly and drill. If you don't get ti right you won't have your cable travel right distance to release.
I did the same thing! LOL. I replaced the pedal twice because it would slip and go to the floor without pulling the cable. I put one on at around 50,000 miles the next at about 90,000. That one went around 150,000 I pulled it and bolted it together. Been working ever since. The self adjuster would strip on mine each time.
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