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Vacuum leak. Maybe Evap?

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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 02:50 PM
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Vacuum leak. Maybe Evap?

Super Duty in my sig. It had many issues when I first bought it, and I've ironed out several. The one persistent issue I have not been able to track down is the lean code that comes back every now and again.

The HVAC system always switches around when the engine is loaded, and the truck almost stalls when you put it into gear, to me all of this sounds very much like a vacuum leak. I was changing the oil today, and thought I would do a little looking around while I was waiting for the oil to drain.

I started wondering if there might be a leak in one of the EVAP lines, as I had to fix a line that had crumbled from age on my mountaineer (also a 2000) just last December.

Upon tracing the lines, I see that they alternate back and forth between rubber sections and metal sections. As I suspected, some of the rubber lines were very dry rotted, but it seems my issue goes beyond just the rubber lines. Most of the metal lines are extremely rusted. Some sections are so bad, it looks like it's growing barnacles.

This truck is not a DD, and doesn't have to meet emissions. I'm wondering if I can disconnect and plug the system in hopes of alleviating the lean condition, or will this further confuse the computer?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 10:39 AM
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While the EVAP system can cause a vacuum leak, it's way down the list of the usual suspects.

Start with the most common faults, in order:

PCV hose elbow
PVH solenoid
Spaghetti tubing near battery

Those three will probably account for 90%+ of vacuum leaks.


and the rest:
Vaccuum reservoir
HVAC controls
etc
 
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 07:51 PM
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I guess I should have mentioned, I did replace the PCV hose elbow shortly after I got the truck. The old one was good but since I bought it to change while I was changing out the PCV valve, I went ahead and changed it anyway.

I never considered the PVH before. In fact, I was very ignorant about how these even worked until I started reading about them today. I knew the truck had vac lines running down to the hubs, and I made the assumption that the truck must have had auto lockers and the PO swapped them out to these manuals. Didn't know that an auto hub with manual override even existed.

After work, I pulled the line that feeds the PVH solenoid at the T, attached a 2" piece of fuel line to the T, then used a screw with liquid electrical tape in the treads to plug the other end of the fuel line. The truck still seems to bog when it's put into gear, but the code has not come back yet. I expect it will come back in a few days, like it always does.

Looks like I'll have to borrow a mighty vac and narrow it down. Thanks projectSHO89, I appreciate you pointing me towards the likely suspects.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by skyfox10
I guess I should have mentioned, I did replace the PCV hose elbow shortly after I got the truck. The old one was good but since I bought it to change while I was changing out the PCV valve, I went ahead and changed it anyway.

I never considered the PVH before. In fact, I was very ignorant about how these even worked until I started reading about them today. I knew the truck had vac lines running down to the hubs, and I made the assumption that the truck must have had auto lockers and the PO swapped them out to these manuals. Didn't know that an auto hub with manual override even existed.

After work, I pulled the line that feeds the PVH solenoid at the T, attached a 2" piece of fuel line to the T, then used a screw with liquid electrical tape in the treads to plug the other end of the fuel line. The truck still seems to bog when it's put into gear, but the code has not come back yet. I expect it will come back in a few days, like it always does.

Looks like I'll have to borrow a mighty vac and narrow it down. Thanks projectSHO89, I appreciate you pointing me towards the likely suspects.
Have the same situation on my truck, original auto locks and replaced with manuals - this is what I did to the vacuum connections.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 07:56 AM
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I also capped off the line to the PVH solenoid for couple of weeks while I was getting around to replacing the PVH solenoid.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 07:54 PM
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The key here is that it sounds like your defroster comes on when you load the engine?

There is a check valve somewhere before the vacuum reservoir that should allow the reservoir to hold vacuum when the engine vacuum goes away.

If that check valve is bad, OR you have a leak somewhere else, that will allow the vacuum for the HVAC system to bleed off and disappear.

The reservoirs have been known to crack underneath where you can't see it.

Get a hand vacuum pump with a gauge and start testing things.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 08:11 AM
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Another quick test of sorts without using the pump gauge method.....

After the truck has sat an hour or so cycling the Function Switch through its Heat, Cool, Vent, Defrost etc settings will show if vacuum is being maintained as designed.

Not sure if the F-Series are as difficult to service as the E-Series for this situation but I hope not---those are just plain crazy impossible.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 12:23 PM
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An update. after plugging off the PVH system. the HVAC system now works normally. I can even let the truck sit for a while, then pull the vacuum lines from the reservoir and hear air hissing in, so everything after the check valve seems to be working.

The truck still is throwing the lean code occasionally though, and bogs when it is put into gear.
 
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